THROUGH FRENCH UBANGI 39 



reached the ground was cleared, and gave place to 

 acres of guinea - corn and millet. It was closely- 

 planted, and the size and height of the stems were 

 similar to those of bamboo, so these fields presented a 

 serious obstacle to the miserable carriers. The track, 

 once more visible, gave bare room for a man to pass, 

 and as we rode along it our knees cracked against 

 the thick stalks. 



By a tributary of the Mao Lui, the boundary of 

 French and German territory, a Senegalese sergeant 

 awaited us. He had brought a charming letter of 

 welcome from M. Bertaut, the military resident at 

 Lere, and had come to accompany us thither, 

 together with four soldiers whose popularity with the 

 natives was striking. We spent one night upon the 

 way, at Bipare, where we arrived at mid-day. There 

 was no rest-house, nor was there any tree to give 

 shade in the neigfhbourhood. The heat was un- 

 endurable, and the only two places of escape were 

 either the porch of the chief's compound or the 

 village clubhouse. The latter was already full of 

 exhausted carriers, but in a trice the sergeant had 

 turned them out, and we crawled beneath its low 

 matting-roof very thankfully, though its height was 

 designed to meet the needs of people who sat upon 

 the ground. 



Bipare is a Mundonng town of considerable size, 

 composed of little hamlets in close juxtaposition. 

 The architecture was peculiar and most picturesque, 

 for in the same building, and alternating with the 

 dwelling-places, were granaries with high-domed roofs. 

 The grain is poured through large round holes in the 

 side of these, and is protected by a covering of thick 



