DOWN THE LOGONS RIVER 105 



way, it was a period of feasting, and our boys thought 

 the position none too safe, and never allowed us 

 to be parted from our revolvers. The disagreeable, 

 however, that befel us was very different from that 

 we had anticipated. It was due to an excess of 

 cordiality, for the moment the natives found we had 

 encamped in their neighbourhood they flocked up to 

 greet us, and shook hands again and again. There was 

 so much grease exuding from their persons that we 

 found it necessary to sit with a basin of disinfectant 

 beside us, in which we repeatedly washed. 



The chief warned us that should our boys visit the 

 village they might be speared, but he took us round 

 himself, and for the first time we saw the 30 -feet 

 h'lP-h conical buildinofs, with rousfh -ribbed ornamenta- 

 tions, which we were to find in their perfection at 

 Musgum. They were interspersed with palm-trees, 

 and it seemed as if the aesthetic sense of the people 

 had prompted them to adapt their tali narrow archi- 

 tecture to nature. The low doorways were of con- 

 siderable thickness, and were richly ornamented on 

 the inside by impressions made in the soft mud by 

 finger-tips. Above were pockets, or pouches, deep 

 enough to store small pots or other household pro- 

 perties. Elaborate fireplaces stood inside, sometimes 

 connected to high shafts, in which corn for immediate 

 consumption was stored. There were mud bedsteads, 

 too, which served a double purpose, for goats were 

 penned in the hollows beneath them ; and a quern 

 was used as a cradle when not required for grinding 

 corn. We found various treasures in the houses, which 

 the people consented to give us in exchange for cloth 

 and beads. Some leg -armour of plaited straw and 



