256 CHIEFS & CITIES OF CENTRAL AFRICA 



which has attached to either end an enormous 

 calabash. Loads are placed in these ; but the less 

 fortunate passenger is delegated to a seat on the 

 ferryman's legs, so that, if he is lucky, his head 

 escapes immersion — but nothing else. 



As we neared the valley of the Gongola we came 

 upon water — though, even had we not seen it, we 

 should have known its presence, for the country was 

 full of game. Guinea-fowl, bush-fowl, and small birds 

 appeared in flocks ; and Senegal hartebeeste, big 

 baboon, and small grey monkeys also frequented the 

 road. 



The passage of the Gongola presents no difficulty 

 at this time of the year, and it was barely necessary 

 to raise our feet to ride over dry-shod. 



Thus we passed out of Bornu, after riding between 

 two and three hundred miles from the boundary at 

 Kaua Baga to a mile or two short of Nafada. The 

 inhabitants of this vast province, as we got farther 

 from the capital, showed increasing courtesy and 

 friendship. We little guessed that we were to renew 

 our acquaintance with them by a prolonged stay at 

 Fika, for our object then was to press forward to 

 the railway by Zaria and Bauchi. 



Nafada is a big town, situated on a high bank 

 above the Gongola. It is trenched and walled, 

 and on its farther side is the British fort. Besides 

 the O.C. there is a doctor ; and when we were 

 there Mr Carlyle, Resident of the District, had 

 come to census the householders. They all showed 

 us great hospitality, but made us miserable by de- 

 scriptions of the country down-river which we longed 

 to visit, and from which nothing would have with- 



