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TRANSPLANTING. 49 
trees. When they become larger, say four to six years 
old, the fall is then the preferable time to transplant, as 
the ground becomes settled about the roots during win- 
ter, and wounds upon them will form rootlets much earlier 
in the spring than if transplanting is delayed until that 
time. But fall planting is usually done too late, and the 
ground does not get well settled around the roots before 
it freezes. If done at all at this season, it should be just 
so soon as the leaves fall or have ceased acting on the 
plant. In sections of the country where the fall of the 
leaf is immediately followed by cold freezing weather, 
transplanting large trees should be deferred to early spring. 
North of the latitude of New York city I would not ad- 
vise planting any yearling or two-year-old trees in the fall, 
as the roots of such are not unusually large or numerous 
enough to hold them firmly, and they are more likely to 
be injured by the frost than if planted in the spring, when 
they will have time to become well rooted before being 
subjected to cold weather. But when young trees are to 
be transplanted from seed or cutting bed, they should be 
taken up in the fall and fully prepared for planting in 
spring. 
This preparation consists mainly in cutting off the tap- 
root and all the side branches. Fig. 13 shows a one-year 
seedling Black Walnut, the cross line, ¢, indicating the 
point where it should be cut off. One third to two thirds 
of the length of the tap-root should be cut away, as it 
facilitates the emission of side roots when planted again. 
These side or lateral roots spread through the soil, giving 
the tree a wider range for obtaining food than if the 
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