66 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. 
less it is for the purpose of giving them some particular 
shape. When several leaders are produced, the tree grows 
too broad in proportion to its height, then take out all but 
one; or if any side branches grow beyond and out of pro- 
portion to others, cut them back. They may be headed 
back or trimmed up to suit our purpose; but this pruning 
may be delayed until the tree has become well established 
and five to ten feet in height. 
The planter has only to keep in view the object to be 
obtained: If the trees are wanted for long, straight tim- 
ber, then long, erect stems will be required; but if for 
screens, than preserve as many lower branches as possible, 
to give density to the tree. 
When trees are grown for ornament, and are given 
plenty of room, very little pruning is required, as they will 
usually take a natural form, which is always more beauti- 
ful to those who have acquired a correct taste than any dis- 
tortion that may be given by the pruner. 
Every tree-grower should study the natural habits of 
the tree, and then he can mold it to his liking and make it 
subservient to his wishes. 
TIME TO PRUNE. 
Pruning should never be performed at a time when the 
sap will flow from the wound, as this would not only 
weaken the tree, but the exuding sap covers the wound, 
and often causes the exposed wood to decay. Our object, 
therefore, should be to choose a time when the tree will 
not bleed (as it is termed), and the wound made will be 
covered with new wood the soonest. For this purpose 
