COOKERY OF THE PIKE AND PERCH 273 



truffles, to be placed in another sautoir^ also with butter. 

 These fillets, being white and black, are cooked 

 to the point and dished alternately, in circular form, 

 on a crust of paste. He recommends a Normande 

 sauce, composed of veloute with good fish stock, 

 white wine, oysters, and some mushroom liquor. The 

 sauce is beaten up with eggs and butter, but he pro- 

 nounces the aroma of the mushroom indispensable. 



To come down to less pretentious cookery. Here 

 is a good Scotch recipe for stuffing and baking : 

 ' Having scaled and cleaned the fish ' the cleaning 

 should have been done before it was sent by the fish- 

 monger ' stuff with a maigre forcemeat, made thus : 

 beat yolks of eggs, a few oysters bearded and chopped, 

 and two boned anchovies, pounded biscuit or grated 

 bread, minced parsley and a bit of eschalot or onion, 

 pounded mace, black pepper, allspice, and salt. Mix 

 in the proper proportions, and having beat a good 

 piece of butter in a stewpan, stir them in it over the 

 fire till of the consistence of a thick butter. Fill the 

 fish and sew up the slit. Bake in a moderate oven, 

 basting with plenty of butter. Serve with anchovy 

 sauce. An excellent forcemeat may be made of 

 scraped ham or tongue, suet or marrow, eschalot, 

 cayenne, salt and chopped anchovy, a little walnut or 

 oyster liquor, with egg to bind.' 



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