COOKERY OF THE PIKE AND PERCH 275 



Baking is, in our opinion, preferable to boiling, 

 but boiling with a good fish may come in as a change, 

 and with due care is within reach of the meanest 

 capacity. Wash the fish, scale it, and plunge it in 

 nearly boiling weak stock of any kind, with a sliced 

 onion, some parsley, a tablespoonful of salt, and a 

 tablespoonful of vinegar ; let it simmer for an hour. 

 Serve on a napkin and with a sauce of a strained pint 

 of the liquor, stirred up with six ounces of butter, 

 kneaded with two spoonfuls of baked flour which has 

 been boiled for five minutes. Chop fine a few 

 gherkins or two tablespoonfuls of capers, and add a 

 tablespoonful of vinegar. 



But as pike has no subtle essences to be stifled, 

 and as the flavour may sometimes leave much to 

 desire, it gives scope for the use of rich or recherche 

 sauces. Brown onion sauce is excellent, and, though 

 piquant, has been highly appreciated by some eminent 

 gourmets. Slice large Spanish onions, brown them 

 in butter over a slow fire, add brown gravy, salt, 

 cayenne, and a bit of butter rolled in brown flour. 

 Skim, and put in a half-glass of good red wine with 

 the same quantity of mushroom or walnut ketchup. 



The perch resembles the pike in temperament 

 and in tastes. He is fierce, pugnacious, and 

 voracious. But his favourite food perhaps is the 



