COOKERY OF THE PIKE AND PERCH 279 



Foreign artists adopt more pretentious methods, 

 and the Seine perch, which with those of the Rhine 

 take the first rank on the Continent, are often served 

 in a matelote, which is generally composed of a variety 

 of river fishes, of which rice masked in a coating of 

 forcemeat is the foundation, and broad slices of carp 

 the base on the rez-de-chaussee. Perch are sometimes 

 cooked in a court-bouillon, and often dressed au 

 gratin. But we still maintain that the simplest 

 cookery befits them best, and next to the souch'e 

 recommend plain boiling with a pint of water sea 

 water if it is to be procured salt, sliced onions, some 

 sprigs of thyme, a bay leaf, some parsley and celery, 

 pepper, and a glass of vinegar. Finally, the con- 

 clusion of the whole matter is that unless the perch 

 are absolutely fresh they are utterly worthless. 



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