8o POT-POURRI FROM A SURREY GARDEN 



peel as if for Julienne soup ; put it into water for 

 seven or eight minutes, drain on a cloth. Take the 

 rest of the orange, removing all the white ; put the pulp 

 into a good reduced stock half glazed. Add Spanish 

 sauce (see ' Dainty Dishes ' ), two or three spoonfuls, and 

 a little red wine port is best. Pass through a sieve, and 

 then add the chips of orange-peel. Unpack the duck, 

 serve on a dish, surround it with pieces of orange ; put 

 a little sauce over the duck and the rest in a sauce- 

 boat. 



Another good and useful receipt is the following : 



French Pie. Cut up 2 Ibs. of lean veal, 2 Ibs. of 

 bacon, and 2 Ibs. of lean pork, in very thin slices. Place 

 them in layers in a fireproof pie-dish. Moisten with 

 stock, and chop up a little herb and very little onion, and 

 put it between the slices of meat. Cover with a sham 

 crust of flour and water. Take all the cuttings, parings, 

 bones, &c. ; cook these in water or weak stock, and 

 reduce to a large teacupful. 



When the pie has baked some time slowly, take it out, 

 take off the crust and pour in the teacupful of stock. 

 When it has cooled, it improves the appearance of the 

 dish to put some well-made aspic jelly (see ' Dainty 

 Dishes ') on the top. 



As it was the end of Lent, I had the chance of seeing 

 several maigre dishes. All the good cooking which hung 

 about monasteries and convents was swept out of England 

 by the Eeformation. It has returned only in my life- 

 time, for gastronomic or health reasons rather than for 

 religious mortification. The old object was to make 

 tasty and palatable what the rules of the Church allowed. 

 The French have a real talent for making good dishes out 

 of nothing, and this they share with no other nation in 

 the world. Ox-tails are not used to make soup in France, 

 or were not ; but when the French refugees came over 



