SEPTEMBER 169 



pieces of stone, where it is possible to get them, or bricks 

 put in edgeways, or drain-tiles, tiles, or flints. There are 

 all sorts of low-growing things which may be planted 

 behind this edge, according to situation and aspect, such 

 as Periwinkles, St. John's Wort, London Pride, and 

 other Saxifrages, Heuchera, Tiarella cordifolia, and the 

 hybrid Megaseas (large-leafed Saxifrage) in many 

 varieties. However many or few of these varieties are 

 chosen, each sort must be planted together in groups, 

 never dotted about. Beside the more picturesque effect 

 produced by masses, there is a practical necessity for 

 this : the stronger-growing plants crowd out the weaker. 

 Some want replanting or dividing every year, others 

 thrive best left alone. 



What I have said above refers to moderate-sized 

 places, but I think I can especially help people with 

 regard to much smaller gardens, which I have so often 

 seen ruined by coarse-growing shrubs, not one of which 

 should be admitted. I should not allow anything 

 coarser-growing than the green and variegated Box, 

 the golden Privet, Bay-tree (which can be constantly 

 cut back), Daturas, Viburnum plicatum, Irish Yews, 

 Cotoneaster grown as a bush, Choisya ternata, Berberises, 

 JBuddlea globosa. If you have room, and can get the 

 special soil, Azaleas and other of the smaller American 

 plants are very desirable. I may mention now that for a 

 very small garden no turf is advisable. Do not try to 

 copy the Manor House garden, but rather take the 

 cottage garden for a model, improving and beautifying it. 

 Make the background of shrubs take the place of the. 

 background of cabbages of the cottager, and have only 

 one paved path down the middle, and a narrow earth 

 one round the outside. If you have a little spare space 

 on one side or at the back, then turf that over and plant 

 it with Apple-trees, spring and autumn bulbs, Columbines 



