THE PRIMULA. 133 



drainage at the bottom, then a layer of coarse siftings 

 from the same soil over the crocks, and fill the pans up 

 to the rim with a compost of one part good maiden loam 

 and one part leaf-mould, with as much silver sand added 

 as will give the compost a porous texture only — two 

 quarts of sand to two pecks 

 of compost will answer the 

 purpose. Press the soil 

 (which should be sifted 

 fine) well into the pans or 

 boxes, making it firm, and 

 make it smooth on the sur- 

 face ; then sow the seed 

 thinly over the surface, 

 and cover it as thick as a 

 new shilling. Set the pans rig< 30.— Auricula cutting. The 

 in a cold frame till the line shows the depth to insert it in 

 seed is up, and then set the the S0lL 



seedlings outside in a shady place from May until the 

 autumn. Prick off the seedlings into other pans or 

 boxes as soon as they are large enough to handle, 

 and set them in a shady place till October. 



The Primula. — There are five or six classes of 

 this genus, viz. the Primula Chinensis or Sinensis, the 

 Primula Japonica, the PrimulaCortusoides, allied to Pri- 

 on ula Japonica, the Primula Polyanthus, a hybrid between 

 the Polyanthus and the Primrose, and the Primrose, 

 of which we have many beautiful double and single 

 varieties. Each of these possesses some special peculi- 

 arity of its own. The Chinese Primrose is the most 

 useful and popular, and contains the greatest variety. 

 This is only fit for the greenhouse and the window. 

 The single varieties of it are raised from seed sown in 

 seed-pans filled with one part leaf-mould, one part 

 maiden loam, and one part silver sand, and set in a 

 mild heat. It should be sown in April. The double 

 varieties must be propagated by cuttings or offshoots 

 — (see page 123). 



The Primula Japonica. — This comparatively new 

 kind possesses some very curious and beautifully con- 



