22 



THE FRUIT-TREE AND SHRUB PRUNER. 



lifted or root-pruned, and the following season a 

 weaker growth will be made, which, if frequently- 

 stopped during the summer, will produce fruit buds. 

 If the tree is too large to lift, dig all the soil away from 

 the roots to find the strong feeders, and sever them with 

 a long sharp chisel, leaving the weaker roots untouched ; 

 or all the laterals, a a and b b, may be cut off at c, 

 and let one year's growth be made before lifting or 

 root-pruning, and then do it, which will produce an 

 abundance of fruit spurs. Fig. 15 may be cut back, 

 as seen in Fig. 16, and allowed to make a year's 

 growth, which will compare with Fig. 18. The 



leaders, a, on the right 

 hand of Fig. 17 show two 

 years' growth, and well 

 set with fruit buds, b, 

 on the two years' wood 

 all through. The leaders 

 on the left hand, c, 

 show the proportion of 

 growth made the first 

 season, and this is the 

 proper time either to lift 

 the plant, if not too 

 large, or to root-prune it, 

 i.e. as soon as the wood 

 has done growing for the 

 season, which is about 

 the end of September. 

 A worn-out tree may be 

 reclaimed by this me- 

 thod if it is healthy, by which I mean a Pear- 

 tree which has become past bearing, or that gives 

 nothing but wood. These are still frequently to be 

 found in good gardens as well as in ordinary ones, 

 and many devices are suggested for their recovery. 

 Some resort to ringing to bring them into bearing, but 

 this is of little use. It is possible to give a sudden 

 check to the growth of a tree by this ringing method, 

 but it is sure ultimately to end in its death. But by 



Kg. 16. 



