the others being removed, to form the head of 

 the vines. This cane is cut back to twelve 

 inches, all lateral branches being cut away. This 

 single cane is carefully tied up to the stake. The 

 head should be formed from eight to ten Inches 

 from the top of the ground. The second year 

 from two to three spurs with four eyes are left 

 to form the head of the vine. The third season 

 the vines will have become stocky enough to be self-support- 

 ing, and the short stakes may be removed if this is found 

 to be the case. In the event that the vines are to be short 

 pruned, four spurs should be allowed to remain with four 

 eyes on the current season's growth. In later years a few 

 more spurs are left each year on the original spurs forming 

 the head, the number being largely a matter of judgment 

 on the part of the pruner. 



If the vines are of a class requiring long stakes and to be 

 grown with canes, it is far better to defer driving these long 

 stakes until the third year, so that the head of the vine will 

 be fully established. Coast redwood stakes are the most 

 satisfactory. 



In staked vines from two to three canes are taken up the 

 third year, and from three to four spurs with three eyes 

 properly distributed around the head of the vine are allowed 

 to remain, to furnish new canes in succeeding years. These 

 remarks apply particularly to the Sultana and Thompson 

 Seedless varieties. In such varieties as Emperor. Flame 



Tokay and Cornichon, it is cus- 

 tomary to take up from two to 

 three canes, allowing these to 

 remain for a number of years, 

 shortening in the spurs to 

 three eyes each season. 



In tying up the canes do not 

 draw them up close to the 

 stake in the middle, but let 

 them belly out, as this will 

 cause the buds to push out 

 better and render them more 

 fruitful. A great saving may 

 be made in tying up vines hav- 

 ing permanent canes like the 

 Emperor, Flame Tokay, etc., 



~9Bi j by stripping up the leaves of 



?HHKlV > * he California Fan Palm 



(W ashingtonia filifera) in 

 place of rope. These strips are 

 not only very strong, but are 

 also very durable and cheap, 

 particularly where the leaves 

 are to be had on the place 

 on -which the vineyard is lo- 

 cated. The leaves should be 

 cut about two weeks before 

 using and exposed to the 

 weather to cure before tearing 

 them Into strips. The number 

 of spurs allowed to remain 

 must be largely a matter of 

 judgment on the part of the 

 pruner, depending very much 

 on the growth of the vine. Al- 

 ways maintain some spurs at 

 the head of the vine, so in the 

 event it is found necessary to 

 cut out the old canes, new ones 

 will be available to replace 

 them. The very satisfactory re- 

 sults which have been obtained 

 in recent years from growing 

 the Thompson Seedless on a 

 trellis will no doubt cause this 

 method to be followed. Vine- 

 yards of this variety so pruned 

 rarely fail to produce a good 

 crop under ordinary conditions. 

 The method of pruning should 

 be the same as has been pre- 

 viously recommended up to the 

 third year, when, instead of 

 Thompson Seedless vine trained tvin the canes to a stake, they 

 to a stake in its third year. Note ^ual^aTof ^rocTduTe wHh 

 particularly the spurs at the head this variety is to drive 2x2-inch 

 of the vines, as well as the canes, by 6-foot stakes to each vine 

 which are well distributed and and string two wires of No. 12 

 mi. *v ii * gauge, one 32 inches above the 

 tied to the stake. The method of | ro * nd and t he other 48 



pruning is to leave one spur Jor inches. The largest poultry 

 every cane. netting staples are of sufficient 



36 



