Method of pruning this and 

 other trees of a similar char- 

 acter. Do not fail also to root 

 prune. Do not allow any bran- 

 ches to grow below the point 

 where the man's hand rests on 

 the tree. The following winter 

 after planting, thin out limbs, 

 allowing no more than five to 

 remain. Two- thirds of their 

 growth should be cut away. The 

 second winter, thin the laterals 

 on the frame work, leaving two 

 cut back severely. The third 

 winter the tree will assume a 

 a symmetrical head; cut out 

 and thin for several years ; and 

 as it grows older cut out strag- 

 gling branches entirely, and 



where head becomes dense, thin 



specimens. A stately tree monarch that has been allowed to 

 develop unhindered by other trees is worth a dozen crowded 

 together. 



The fault of crowding is very common and leads to bad 

 results in the culture of shrubs, vines and plants. In 

 cases where it is desired to secure massive effects, close 

 planting is advisable with a view of thinning out whenever 

 there is a tendency to overcrowding. 



WHEN TO PLANT 



All varieties of deciduous trees should be planted in the 

 dormant season from January to April, just as soon as suf- 

 ficient rain has fallen to soften up the ground so that 

 large enough holes can be dug to receive the roots readily. 

 Evergreens transplant best from February to May, and 

 in localities where there are no great extremes of heat dur- 

 ing the summer months, planting may be done as late as 

 July. Palms can be safely transplanted from September 

 until June of the following year, but to successfully grow 

 them during the winter months, they should never be dug 

 fresh out of the ground from December to February, as 

 they are dormant at that season of the year and will in- 

 variably "go back." We dig palms in the fall of the year 

 and store them in our palm house. By handling them in this 

 manner they can be safely transplanted during the months 

 of inactivity. 



HOW TO PLANT DECIDUOUS TREES 



No matter how carefully a deciduous tree Is taken up, 

 there are always some roots which will be bruised or 

 broken, and these should be cut off to smooth sound wood. 

 All other roots should have a fresh cut made on them and 

 shortened in so they will fit into the holes readily without 

 doubling up. Before planting the ground should be thor- 

 oughly plowed or spaded, and the holes should be dug suf- 

 ficiently large to accommodate the roots without cramping. 

 Far better to dig the holes too large and fill in with sur- 

 face soil than to err by having them too small. It is a 

 safe rule to set the trees a few inches deeper than they 

 stood in the nursery rows. 



Don't try to preserve the top of a tree If you -want your 

 solicitous care rewarded by having your trees make a 

 phenomenal growth. Don't be persuaded that pruning will 

 spoil the tree. To secure a well balanced, vigorous tree 

 prune both the top and root. To plant for success, look 

 most to the root. A good proportion of roots and the top 

 can be made whatever you choose. Trees twelve to fifteen 

 feet high should be cut back to eight feet and all small 

 shoots should be cut outi clean except those intended for the 

 frame work of the tree, and these should be cut back to at 

 least six inches. These branches will eventually make the 

 head of the tree. If all were left there would not be 

 enough sap to develop such as would start into anything 

 but weak twigs. 



Older trees should be cut back more in proportion than 

 younger ones; those having few roots more than those 

 having many. 



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