The quince root dwarfs the growth of the trees, promotes the 

 development of fruit spurs and makes it possible to grow 

 pears on any town lot or small garden. Picture a pear tree 

 not over four feet high, loaded with perfect specimens of 

 superb fruit and satisfy your longing by having a few trees 

 for yourself. Some people do not fully understand that 

 there is a lack of affinity of some varieties of pears for the 

 quince and this is very pronounced in the Bartlett. To over- 

 come this fault, the Beurre Hardy, which makes a remarkable 

 good strong union on the quince, is budded first and then the 

 pear budded or grafted on this pear stock the following sea- 

 son. This is known as double working. The pruning of the 

 pear on the quince is practically the same as for standard 

 pears, except that it should be more severe. 



THE CHERRY 



The popularity of this, the initial stone fruit of the season, 

 is unquestioned. The firmness of the leading shipping varie- 

 ties permits of their being packed when almost ripe for 

 eastern shipment, and this accounts for the enthusiasm with 

 which our cherries are received in the eastern markets. 

 California has every reason to be justly proud of its large, 

 highly colored and luscious cherries. The tree thrives best 

 in the coast counties, but also does well in some sections 

 of the interior where the soil is of a deep rich alluvial 

 nature, retentive of moisture, and also well drained. The 

 cherries of Washington and Oregon are also famous, although 

 they ripen somewhat later than in California. Plant the 

 trees 25 to 30 feet apart and, on exceptionally good soil, 

 even further than this distance is advisable. Low heading 

 is important as the tree is subject to sunburn, the bark 

 being very sensitive. The trees should therefore be headed 

 back to 18 inches. Three branches should be allowed to 

 grow to form the head of the tree and these should be 

 distributed in such a manner as to prevent forks, as the 

 tree has a tendency to split as it grows older. The first 

 winter, these branches should be cut back one-half and the 

 following season not more than one to two branches should 

 be allowed to grow from those left the first year. The 

 third season the new growth should be shortened in about 

 one-third, and some of the laterals appearing near the point 

 of divergence from the main stems should no't be cut off but 

 merely shortened in, for the shade they furnish is one of the 

 essential features in the development of the young trees. 

 This same method of pruning should be followed until the 

 fifth year. In after years the cutting should be confined to 

 the removal of branches which are interfering and over- 

 crowding. 



The soil in which our trees are grown is particularly 

 well adapted to the development of a perfect root system. 

 Our trees are principally worked on the Mazzard root, as 

 it is adapted to the soils of the Pacific Coast. The tendency 

 of the Mahaleb root is to dwarf the trees, although the very 

 opposite effect is apparent in the one year buds in nursery 

 rows. 



The cherries are classified under two heads, the Hearts or 

 Bigarreaux, which are the sweet cherries, the trees being 

 strong, vigorous growers; the Dukes or Morellos are the 

 sour cherries. The latter trees grow more slowly, the 

 branches are more slender and of a darker hue, the leaves 

 are thicker, more erect and of a deeper green. 



THE PLUM AND PRUNE 



Plums and prunes are so closely allied that remarks per- 

 taining to one fruit are equally applicable to the other. 

 Practically speaking the prune is characterized by its sweet, 

 firm flesh and has the property of drying and curing without 

 the seed being removed, making an excellent fruit, recog- 

 nized as having great value in the commercial world. 



The plum in its geographical distribution on this. Coast, 

 and particularly in California, covers a wide range of soils 

 and climates, being thrifty along the Coast regions, in the 

 Coast and interior valleys, and well up in the foothills. 

 Indeed, so wide is its range that it is safe to say that every 

 county in the state boasts of its plum orchards, excepting per- 

 haps the city and county of San Francisco. This adaptability 

 is undoubtedly due largely to the various stocks on which 

 the different sorts are budded or grafted. Twenty to twenty- 

 five feet apart is a standard distance to plant the tree. 



Being a sprawling grower, the tree should be pruned 

 quite severely when young and headed back to 18 inches 

 from the surface of the ground. The tree, like the cherry 

 is subject to sun scald, and this is readily overcome by hav- 

 ing the branches start down low to give ample 

 shade to the body of the tree. The first four 

 seasons following planting, practically the same 

 method of pruning as directed for other fruits 

 should be adopted. After the fourth season, the 

 pruning should be confined to removing interfer- 

 ing branches, dispensing with the shortening in 

 of the laterals, for experienced growers have 



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