In localities where the seasons are very much 

 later than ours, due to higher elevation or to 

 the difference in latitude, it is far better to 

 permit us to forward stock while in the dormant 

 condition. If purchasers will be kind enough to 

 call our attention to the fact that extreme cold 

 weather will not permit of early planting, we 

 will defer shipping their order as late in the 

 season as it is safe for us to do so. The shipment 

 on arrival at destination should be examined by removing 

 a board from the case, and if the Voots appear to be 

 in good condition, the contents should remain undisturbed 

 and the case should be placed in a cellar or in a cold 

 storage plant where the temperature should be maintained 

 at about 35 degrees fahrenheit. This method of handling 

 trees is thoroughly practicable, so much so that we have 

 found it possible to ship trees to the antipodes during our 

 winter season and have the shipment on arrival there placed 

 in cold storage until the opening of the planting season. 



Experienced orchardists are becoming forcibly convinced 

 of the one fact that better results are obtained by following 

 along lines of simplicity in planning an orchard and for all 

 practical purposes the square system seems to meet all the 

 requirements. 



The very fact that there is considerable confusion over 

 the several other methods, leads us to believe that this plan 

 should be used exclusively except where the economy of the 

 ground is the first and only consideration. 



PREPARING TREES FOR PLANTING 



Just immediately before planting, be sure to examine 

 the roots carefully, and cut away to a smooth surface all 

 bruised, lacerated and broken roots and rootlets with a 

 sharp knife. The tree can now be said to be ready for its 

 permanent orchard home. 



If planting is delayed through circumstances beyond the 

 control of the orchardist and a warm spell should intervene 

 in February or March, causing the buds of the trees or 

 vines to start, remove them from the trenches, shake out all 

 the dirt from the roots and expose them for two hours in 

 the morning on a calm day to the rays of the sun. This will 

 cause the small white rootlets which have started, to dry 

 up, and if the trees are heeled in, (wetting them down of 

 course) in a shady place their dormancy may be prolonged 

 several weeks. In setting out, one person should hold the 

 tree in an upright position against the notch in the tree 

 setter, while another shovels qr fills in the loose soil around 

 it, first spreading out the roots and rootlets in as natural 

 a position as possible. The surface or friable soil should 

 be put in first among the roots, care being taken to fill in 

 every interstice, thus bringing all the roots in direct contact 

 with the soil. When the hole is two-thirds full, firm the 

 earth thoroughly about the roots, but before doing this 

 draw the tree up to its permanent position. The top three 

 to four inches of soil should not be tramped. A basin should 

 be scooped out around the tree which will hold at least 15 

 gallons of water, and unless heavy rains should intervene 

 to fill it up, water should be applied either by bucket or 

 by irrigation. The following day draw in loose soil to fill 

 up this basin, reducing it to a fine condition of tilth and do 

 not tramp in. Guard against setting too deeply but allow 

 for the settling of the soil, so that when once established 

 the tree will stand about as it did at the time of removal 

 from the nursery rows, or at the outside not more than three 

 inches below the surface of the soil. In the hot interior 

 valleys of this State, it is also very important to protect 

 the trunks with tree-protectors until they can supply their 

 own shade. 



HOW TO PLANT 



As has been suggested previously in this introduction, 

 above all things have your ground in the very best condition 

 of tilth. The importance of this one point cannot be dwelt 

 upon too forcibly, for it not only insures more rapid work 

 on the part of the men setting your trees, but in addition 

 to this, not having any clods to contend with, the fine loose 

 soil packs around the roots, when tamped in, and if for any 

 reason there should be no opportunity of settling the trees 

 with water after planting there is very little danger of their 

 drying out. 



Before proceeding with the planting of an orchard or vine- 

 yard the land should be laid off having one side and end 

 of the field at right angles. When there are no regular 

 subdivisions to work from, and particularly where extensive 

 plantings are to be carried on, these base- lines should be 

 established with a transit. Nothing is more unsightly than 

 to have your trees or vines out of line, and by following 

 out the suggestion of having these base lines at right angles, 

 there is very little probability of this occurring. A stake 

 about half an inch square and one foot long, split out of 

 redwood, will be found to be a very convenient size as a 

 marker for the setting of the trees. Dip about six inches 



