PEAS 183 



receptacles, providing for riddance of the weevils 

 with carbon-bisulfide. Experiments with buggy 

 peas have made clear the importance of this pre- 

 caution. While weevil-less peas sprouted per- 

 fectly, the germination of buggy peas, under the 

 same conditions, was at best only a quarter of 

 those tested. In some trials, only one seed out 

 of fifty sprouted. Whether purchased or raised 

 in the home garden, the seed must be treated with 

 carbon-bisulfide while in moth-proof containers 

 and kept from the air until planted. 



As to the time of planting peas, all the gar- 

 deners and garden books to the contrary, it does 

 not pay to put in peas or any other seed when 

 the ground is nearly freezing-cold and soaking- 

 wet. Wait, instead, until the spring sunshine has 

 warmed the air, and the ground has drained 

 enough so that the lumps crumble easily beneath 

 the drag teeth. Then, put in the First of Alls 

 in the more open sandy strip. Lay out double 

 rows, 2 feet apart, at least for early peas; 3 feet, 

 anyway, for later sowings. In the double rows, 

 allow 6 or 8 inches, the width of the hook between 

 the sowings for cultivating. Sow the early peas 

 in a furrow, nearly 4 inches deep ; the later peas 

 at least an inch lower to provide for moisture for 

 germination and to aid deeper rooting in hot 

 weather. Place the early slighter growing varie- 

 ties ten seeds to the foot; the later, bigger, 

 branching sorts need more room, say 3 or 4 inches. 



