524 FISHES. 



scari from another*; and oysters even from so remote a spot as 

 our Sandwich f ; but there was and is a fashion in the article of 

 good living. The Romans seem to have despised the trout, the 

 piper, and the doree ; and we believe Mr. Quin himself would have 

 resigned the rich paps of a pregnant sow J, the heels of camels , 

 and the tongues of flamingos ||, though dressed by Heliogabalus's 

 cooks, for a good jowl of salmon, with lobster-sauce. 



When Ausonius speaks of this fish, he makes no eulogy on its 

 goodness, but celebrates it only for its beauty. 



Purpureisque Salar stellatus tergore guttis. 

 With purple spots the Salar's back is stain'd. 



These marks point out the species he intended : what he meant 

 by his fario is not so easy to determine : whether any species of 

 trout, of a size between the salar and the salmon ; or whether the 

 salmon itself, at a certain age, is not very evident. 



Teque inter geminos species, neutrumque et utrumque, 

 Qui nee dum Salmo, nee Salar ambiguusque 

 Amborum medio Fario intercepte sub a?vo. 



Salmon or Salar, I'll pronounce thee neither: 

 A doubtful kind, that may be none, or either. 

 Fario, when stopt in middle growth. 



In fact, the colours of the trout, and its spots, vary greatly in 

 different waters, and in different seasons ; yet each may be redu- 

 ced to one species. In Llyndivia, a lake in South Wales, are 

 trouts called coch y dull, marked with red and black spots as big 

 as sixpences ; others unspotted, and of a reddish hue, that some, 

 times weigh near ten pounds, but are bad tasted. 



In Lough Neagh, in Ireland, are trouts called there buddaghs, 

 which not unfrequently weigh thirty pounds ; but it was not my 

 fortune to see any during my stay in the neighbourhood of that 

 vast water. 



* Suetonius vita, Vitellii. + Juvenal, Sat. IV. 141. 



$ Martial, Lib. XIII. Epig. 44. ^ Lampriere vit Heliogab. 



| Martial, Lib. XI. Epig. 71. 



