RUINS OF JERUSALEM. 



mi^ht be permitted to take off (he covering from their feet, and 

 proceed, barefooted, to the Holy Sepulchre. We had not been 

 prepared for the grandeur of the spectacle which the city alone 

 eihibited. Instead of a wretched and ruined town, by some 

 described as the desolated remnant of Jerusal&m, we beheld, as 

 it were, a flourishing and stately metropolis; presenting a magni- 

 ficent assemblage of domes, towers, palaces, churches, and monas- 

 teries; all of which, glittering in the sun's rays, shone with 

 inconceivable splendour. As we drew nearer, our whole atten- 

 tion was engrossed by its noble and interesting appearance. The 

 lofty hills whereby it is surrounded give to the city itself an 

 appearance of elevation inferior to that which it really possesses. 

 About three quarters of an hour before we reached the walls, wo 

 passed a large ruin upon our right hand, close to the road. This, 

 by the reticulated style of masonry upon its walls, as well as by 

 the remains of its vaulted foundations of brick. work, evidently 

 denoted a Roman building. We could not obtain any account of 

 it ; neither is it mentioned by the authors who have described the 

 antiquities of the country. 



At this place, two Turkish officers, mounted on beautiful horses 

 sumptuously caparisoned, came to inform us, that the governor, 

 having intelligence of our approach, had sent them to escort us 

 into the town. When they arrived, we were all as-embled upon 

 an eminence, admiring the splendid appearance of the city ; and 

 being impressed with other ideas than those of a vain ostentation, 

 would gladly have declined the parade, together with the interrup- 

 tion caused by a public entry. This was, however, said to be 

 unavoidable; it was described as a necessary mark of respect due 

 to Gjezzar Pacha, under whose protection we travelled: as well 

 as of consequence to our future safety. We therefore confined 

 ourselves to all the etiquette of our Mahometan masters of cere, 

 mony, and were marshalled accordingly. Our attendants were 

 ordered to fall back in the rear; and it was evident, by the man. 

 ner of placing us, that we were expected to form a procession to 

 the governor's house, and to appear as dependants, swelling the 

 train of our Moslem conductors. Our British tars, not relishing 

 this, would now and then prance towards the post of honour, and 

 were with difficulty restrained from taking the lead. As we ap. 

 preached the city, the concourse of people became very great, the 

 walls and the road side being covered with spectators. An immense 



