30 PRACTICAL CARP CULTURE. 



showing a strainer box, such as described above, was suggested to us by 

 E. C. Griffiths, of Honey Brook, Pa. We had it engraved for the benefit 

 of the readers of "American Carp Culture," and because of the strainer 

 box and sliding center-board reproduce it here. In suggesting it Mr. 

 Griffith said: 



"The greatest trouble in ponds is to make an outlet that will not choke 

 with drift and at the same time prevent the fish from escaping. Frost 

 also tries the best constructed appliances. In the plan of drawing I send 

 you, all these obstacles are overcome. Three years ago I designed and 

 introduced it into my pond and it has worked in the most satisfactory 

 manner. Other parties have also made their outlets after this plan and 

 say it works better than anything of the kind they ever tried. 



Drawing the water from the bottom, the temperature is several 

 degrees cooler than the surface in the summer, and in the winter it main- 

 tains a temperature of spring water, therefore seldom forms ice inside the 

 pipes. Another advantage I claim is if at any time the water is wanted 

 to be partly lowered, it can be done without disturbing the under drain. 

 The water level can also be changed at will, simply by raising the sliding 

 center partition." 



In placing of overflows and under drains in dams and embankments, 

 we cannot 'insist too strenuously upon the necessity of great care in the 

 work to prevent leakage and to insure th complete emptying of the 

 pond. They must of course be put in place as the dam is being built, and 

 immediately after the ditch underlying the dam is filled. This will be 

 before much material has been taken from the pond bottom. If the 

 material to fill the ditch is taken from the pond bottom it should be taken 

 from the point where your collector is to be situated, (if the material 

 there is good for the purpose). This will lower that point so that you can 

 better judge the right level for your underdrain, which should be about 

 four inches below the bottom of the collector. When ready to lay your 

 tubing, prepare a very level, thoroughly tamped bed for it. When in its 

 place drive stakes with a flat surface next the tube, two feet apart. Nail 

 these to both the bottom and top piece of tube. Good stakes should also 

 be driven at the collector end of tlje tube and nailed in the same way. 

 Brace the upright end of the drain pipe, then begin filling around the tube, 

 using pulverised earth, well wet, tamped from end to end on each side, 

 carefully working every particle of earth that you can in under the tube ; 

 the stakes will prevent its lifting, and you can pack it very thoroughly. 

 Continue the filling and tamping on up the sides and over the top in the 

 same way. The soil, if wet to the point of puddling, will pack so much 

 the better. 



In large ponds it may be found necessary to place more than one of 

 these outlets to facilitate the emptying of the pond. But this is a matter 

 which every culturist will be able to pass the best judgment on himself 

 and we leave it with him. 



OVERFLOWS. 



In ponds subject to freshets or sudden inundations of water, a provision 

 should be made, if possible, to have an overflow at the upper end of th 



