36 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN. 



The next if the subsoil be indifferent, is the confining the 

 trees to the good surface soil, by the formation of a bottom 

 impervious to their roots. This is sometimes done with 

 stone-shivers and lime-rubbish, or with coal-ashes and clay, 

 compacted by treading with the feet, and beating with the 

 back of a spade. Loudon recommends successive layers, 

 an inch thick, of clean gravel, pulverized earth, and then 

 gravel, well watered and firmly compressed by means of a 

 heavy roller. Good soil to the depth of two feet and a 

 half, or three feet, is placed over this impervious bottom. 

 Three-fourths rich loam, and one- fourth light sandy earth, 

 form a mixture congenial to the generality of fruit-trees. 

 In selecting the soil, regard may be had to the particular 

 trees which are to cover different portions of the wall. 

 Thus a heavy soil may be allotted to pears and plums ; 

 loam of a medium character, inclining to be strong, to 

 peaches, nectarines, and apricots ; and a lighter earth to 

 cherries and figs. Above all, care should be taken to ren- 

 der the borders sufficiently rich and substantial. Whilst 

 every skilful horticulturist may, in various ways, reduce 

 the luxuriance of his trees, nothing can compensate for ex- 

 treme poverty in the soil. The same principle will dictate 

 moderation in cropping wall-borders with culinary vegeta- 

 bles ; a practise in which gardeners are apt to exceed from 

 a desire to furnish very early crops of peas, turnips, cab- 

 bage, or potatoes. Lettuce, endive, or small sallad plants, 

 do little harm. 



Orchards. Within the limits of the greater proportion 

 of large gardens, such a number of dwarf standard trees 

 may be planted as will prove sufficient to afford a supply 

 of fruit for an ordinary family. Where, however, this is 

 not the case, it is desirable that there should be a separate 

 orchard. A situation similar to that of a garden, and the 



