44 THE TROPICAL WORLD. 



fire to the whole pile, and then the flames, taking an unex- 

 pected direction, may force the company to flee as fast as 

 possible to the raft, and to settle in a safer place, while they 

 continue to blaze over the forest, or to cast a lurid light over 

 the waters. 



Fires are frequently lighted for a more useful purpose on the 

 banks of the stream, as they never fail to attract a number of 

 large fishes, which the dexterous Indians know how to strike 

 with their harpoons. While some are thus engaged, others are 

 lurking for the tortoises that pay their nightly visits to the 

 bank, anxious to bury their numerous eggs in the sand. Thus 

 almost every landing on one of these river-islands furnishes 

 fresh provisions for the continuance of the journey ; for the 

 captured tortoises are bound to the raft, where, in the enjoy- 

 ment of water and shade, they continue to live for a long time. 



As soon as the supper is finished, the Indians, after throwing 

 an additional log upon the watch-fire, all stretch themselves 

 on the ground, under their dark-coloured toldos, or mosquito 

 covers, which on the white sand have the appearance of as 

 many coffins. Their tranquil breathing soon tells that they 

 are enjoying the deep repose peculiar to their race ; but sleep 

 forsakes the European amid scenes so novel and so grand. The 

 soul is struck with impressions which compel it to reflection. 

 The ripple breaks lightly on the bank ; no noise, save the 

 crackling of the fire, breaks the stillness of the night. Only 

 from time to time the splashing of a fish is heard in the distant 

 centre of the stream. The same stillness reigns in the skies ; 

 for not the slightest cloud dims the brightness of the stars. 

 But suddenly the waters begin to rustle at a distance, as if 

 w^ave were rolling after wave, and as the strange sound draws 

 nigh, an unusual agitation becomes apparent in the water. 

 The awakening Indians whisper anxiously, for they imagine an 

 enormous reptile to be the cause of the phenomenon. They 

 also believe the lagunes of the great stream to be the seat of 

 a prodigious serpent, equal in size and power to the fabulous 

 sea-snake ; for the yacu-mama, or ' mother of the waters,' as 

 this imaginary monster is called, attracts by a single inspira- 

 tion every living creature — man, quadruped, or bird — that 

 passes within a hundred feet of its jaws. As the maelstrom 

 Bucks down the helpless boat that comes within its vortex. 



