Propagation. 



the Gardeners' Chronicle, we think so well of it that we 

 intend giving it a trial. According to the correspondent 

 named, it Is far more successful than budding, more quickly 

 performed, the bud running no risk of injury by pushing it 

 into place; while should failure result no disfiguring scars 

 are left, and every stem can be grafted, whether the bark 

 "runs" or not. The following is the actual method, as 

 detailed by the writer in the columns of the journal referred 

 to: 



' ' The operation consists in making a slanting incision in 

 the stem or branch, and then with a second cut removing the 

 rind and a very little of the wood. In this cut the bud is 

 placed, after cutting to fit it exactly. That done, another 

 cut can be made on the opposite side of the stem, and a 

 second bud inserted at the same height. Both buds are now 

 bound in with bast or worsted, beginning at the bottom, the 

 short end laid on the stem or shoot, and the longer end used 

 to encircle the buds, binding fairly tightly immediately below 

 and above the bud. The buds being now bound in, the short 

 end and the longer remaining end of the bast can be tied in 

 a knot." 



Cuttings. 



By far the simplest method of propagating Roses is that 

 of cuttings, by which Roses are obtained on their own roots, 

 and for which a great advantage is claimed by some, though 

 others do not share that opinion, contending that if Roses 

 are budded low, whether on the Manetti or Seedling Briar, 

 they are soon on their own roots, as the Rose emits roots as 

 well as the foster-mother. 



There are two seasons when Rose-cuttings may be made 

 spring and autumn. We do not advocate the former, as it 

 implies the necessity of heated houses, which many amateurs 

 do not possess, and Roses struck under cool treatment stand 

 better than those which have been cultivated in heat. The 



