Planting 33 



Chelsea, Turner, of Slough, Jackman and Sons, Woking, &c. 

 Any or all of these and many more besides may be relied 

 upon for sending out excellent stock. 



Pruning. 



This important matter has next to be considered. It is 

 not one of those subjects for which hard-and-fast rules can 

 be laid down. The amount of pruning will be largely 

 governed by the variety and not a little by the purpose 

 for which the Rose is grown. Roses, irrespective of variety, 

 that are simply grown for garden decoration will not require 

 severe pruning. Then, again, it is necessary to differentiate 

 between the spring and the summer pruning, the latter merely 

 consisting of the shortening of rampant shoots or the removal 

 of all useless wood, say, in September, thus enabling the 

 autumn sun and air to play their part in ripening up the 

 wood. 



The actual time for pruning proper depends a good deal 

 on situation. In some places it is perilous to do it early, as 

 the shoots made are apt to be cut off by frost ; but, as a 

 general rule, it may be undertaken the first fortnight in 

 March, that being about as good a time as any. It is very 

 possible that before this, in some seasons, the upper portion 

 of the shoots may be green, and buds even making their 

 appearance; but this need create no anxiety. "Will they 

 not bleed very much when pruned, if left so late? " may be 

 asked. Very possibly ; but a great deal too much stress has 

 been laid on this bleeding. The experience of many very 

 successful Rose-growers is that it does little or no harm. 



The first year that Roses are received from a nursery or 

 planted they cannot well be pruned too hard, and should be 

 cut down to two or three eyes. Afterwards it will become 

 a question as to whether they should be pruned lightly or 

 hard. Supposing, then, that the second year after planting 

 has come, how are the plants to be treated ? If they have 



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