CURING, COOLING A^D BALING. 19? 



rubbing the hop to pieces. Because of the presence of these 

 over-dried hops, we are able to turn off the flooring with a 

 small percentage of fat hops, being those whose stems are 

 not wilted, but show as green as when placed in the kiln. 

 Floorings, with 10 per cent, of such stems, may be turned 

 off, and yet keep, if otherwise well and evenly cured and 

 properly handled afterward, though I should by no means 

 advise leaving so large a percentage; probably not five per 

 cent, of such stems are left in ordinary practice. Whatever 

 there may be will have disappeared in a couple of days, and 

 such stems as were green will be wilted and the moisture 

 absorbed by the balance of the hops. The after-handling 

 consists in forking the hops over after they have lain a few 

 days and have begun to warm up, as hops in bulk will do where 

 not dried thoroughly. A better plan is to cure at a lower 

 temperature, which will insure a larger percentage of wilted 

 stems, and less of those with sharp corners, as likewise of 

 the green stems and a more even color." 



If hops are slack-dried, they will "give" when 

 cooled off. If over-dried, they will fall to pieces or shell 

 badly, feel harsh and the stems will be brittle. 



FIG. 109. SHOVEL AND BRUSH FOR USE IN KILN. 



This last state can be helped by putting a quart 

 of salt in a pan on the stove and shutting the ventila- 

 tors for a short time a little trick that will soften and 

 toughen the otherwise brittle hops. Even on brittle 

 hops, salt must be used with care, and never on hops 

 that are all right. It causes hops to absorb moisture, 

 especially in Oregon and Washington. A hop that 

 absorbs moisture before being baled is liable to be 

 clammy and boardy. 



When the hops are done, draw fire at once, and 

 open ventilators, and allow the heat to go off; then 



