CURING, COOLING AND BALING. 207 



more than one bale deep, a couple of boards can be laid 

 on one row for the upper row to stand on. If they are 

 to remain in storage any length of time, the bales are 

 best turned the other end up every 10 days or two 

 weeks. 



ADDITIONAL NOTES ON CURING 



Hops from young yards, and hops damaged by 

 mold, require to be entirely dry, and may be finished 

 up with a few degrees more heat. They also require 

 pressing sooner, as they slack and become moist 

 sooner, on account of the core or stem being larger. 



Green hops are liable to become heated if allowed 

 to remain in bulk, even over night, and it is advisable 

 to stir them late in the evening if they have to be kept 

 over. Heating will cause the lupulin to drip out. If 

 the hops should come to the kiln hot and wilted, it will 

 be found to be a good plan to thoroughly dampen them 

 with a sprinkling pot of water as the flooring is being 

 laid. This causes them to freshen up, and the escaping 

 steam \vill open up the leaves of the strobile, thereby 

 letting the heat season out the core of the hops without 

 baking all the life out of them by exposing them to 

 long continued heat. If the hops are to remain long on 

 the platform before going into the kiln, the sacks should 

 be set so as not to touch each other, the mouths of the 

 sacks opened, and the person caring for them should 

 run his hand and arm down through the center to the 

 bottom of each sack, then grasp a large handful of hops 

 and draw the hand out. This will loosen the hops up 

 and leave a hole through the center, permitting the 

 air to circulate freely, preventing the hops heating in 

 the sacks. 



The proper temperature for curing hops is a mat- 

 ter of dispute. The trouble is that with limited kiln 

 accommodation, it is necessary to cure the hops in 12 

 hours, and to do this extreme heat is required. The 



