EXPERIENCE OF PEACTICAL GROWERS. 



31 



which the end of a lever is inserted — passing over 

 the hogshead and working by a tree or post, in which 



should be pins at intervals of eight or ten inches, by 

 which a small lever may be used to force the first 

 lever down on the tobacco. Fifty to a hundred pounds 

 may be placed in the hogshead and firmly pressed a 

 few hours, and as much added again, and so on. 



The accompanying figure will serve to represent the 

 manner in which the hands (or ties) may be placra in 

 the hogshead — filling the middle first, then the outer 

 edges — placing the tops toward the center, and the 

 buts in the direction of a a, for the first layer. The 

 second will be placed the same, only the buts will be in 

 the position of b b, the third at c c, etc., observing 

 to keep the center and edges full. 



In conclusion, the two most essential itctns in 

 tobacco-culture are, first, a good body, and secondly, a 

 good bright cure. The first is secured by rich gi-ound 

 with plenty of manure. The second by y/ce exposure 

 to the sun and air, and exclusion from raiii and damp 

 weather. 



Ko. IX.-BY PERRY N. HULL, LITCHFIELD COUNTY, CONN. 



The cultivator of tobacco needs, 1st. A rich, warm, 

 finely pulverized soil ; 2d. Strong early plants. The 

 failure to obtain either of these at the outset, will very 

 seriously endanger the success of the crop. Here in 

 Connecticut, it usually requires the whole season for 

 the crop to arrive at the proper state of maturity, 

 without which its value is greatly diminished. Even 

 though harvested no more than one week before ma- 

 turity, the danger while curing is greatly increased, 

 and if, through very favorable weather, the tobacco 

 escapes total fuin by pole-burn, its value will still be 

 diminished one fourth by bad colors, etc. 



Seed-Beds. — Select a light garden soil, in a location 

 sheltered from north winds, but exposed to the sun 

 from morning until evening, and prepare in October. 

 The best manure for plant-beds is that taken from the 

 hog-pen, kept in a heap through the summer, and oc- 

 casionally cut over with a shovel, that it may be thor- 

 oughly rotted. Such manure contains fewer weed- 

 f?eeds than almost any other, and its fertilizing quali- 

 ties can not be surpassed. This should be generously 

 applied — say scatter the ground over one, or one and 

 one half inches deep, and thoroughly spade in, in the 

 month indicated. The seed should be selected from 

 an early, strong growing plant, which should, after 

 ripening, be cut up and hung in a dry place, top down- 

 wards ; the seed, if out of the reach of mice, keeping 

 in this way much better and safer than if picked and 

 shelled. 



Varieties. — There are almost as many varieties of 

 •?eed-leaf tobacco as there are of Indian corn — the dif- 

 lerence not always noticed by the inexperienced, but 

 very readily by the experienced cultivator. In my 

 opinion, the variety best adapted to our purpose, is 



that kno^vn in this State as the Bull Tongue. The 

 leaf is neither too long nor too short, the length and 

 width being in such good proportion that manufac- 

 turers consider there is less waste 'than there is to a 

 very long, narrow leaf, or a very broad, short leaf. It 

 yields well, and ripens at least one week earlier than 

 many of the broader varieties. Almost any of the 

 seed-leaf varieties will do well ; but never patronize 

 any of the humbugs sent from the Fatent-Office, under 

 the name of Graham Tobacco, Maryland Broad-Leaf, 

 etc. They are a Southern tobacco, and when grown 

 upon that soil, make chewing-tobacco ; but here it is 

 good for nothing for that purpose, and is too coarse 

 for segar-wrappers. 



Many are too anxious in the spring to get their seed 

 into the ground, to be successful in getting good 

 plants ; as often, after waiting two or thi-ee weeks for 

 the plants to come up, they have to make a second 

 sowing, thereby putting them back a week or more. 

 Wait until the ground is dry, and warm enough for 

 the seed to grow, instead of rotting. When this 

 change has taken place in the soil, sprout the seed, 

 instead of sowing dry, thus gaining at least ten days' 

 time, and precluding the possibility of being disap- 

 pointed in the first sowing. From tlie first to the 

 middle of April, (being governed by the forwardness 

 of warm weather,) procure some rotten wood, so rot- 

 ten that it may be finely pulverized with the hand ; 

 mix this with the seed, in about the proportion of ten 

 parts of wood or dirt to one of seed. Mix them thor- 

 oughly, and moisten with water slightly warmed, and 

 repeat it as often as it dries up, and keep it in a warm 

 room. The seed will usually get in the proper condi- 

 tion for sowing in from four to six days, depending 



