420 VINEGAR, CIDER, AND FRUIT-WINES. 



The French method can be recommended, but it would be still 

 better if it were executed in the improved manner practised here 

 and there in central England and in the New England States. 

 This improvement consists in the previous boiling of the fruit, 

 which must, however, not be continued longer than five minutes. 

 The fruit is not gradually heated but submerged in boiling water 

 for five minutes, and, without being allowed to cool, brought at 

 once into a moderately hot oven. Steaming instead of boiling 

 the fruit is still better. It should be exposed to the steam for 

 not longer than five minutes, and must then as quickly as possible 

 be brought into a moderately hot oven. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 



PREPARATION OF PICKLES AND MUSTARD. 



Pickles. Enormous quantities of pickles are brought into com- 

 merce, especially by American and English factories. The most 

 remarkable varieties are piccalilli or Indian pickles, mixed pickles, 

 and walnut pickles. The packing is always the same ; some of 

 the oldest and largest English factories still adhere to stoneware 

 pots, which have the advantage of entirely excluding the light 

 from the product, thus contributing to its keeping quality. Both 

 the French and Americans use glass bottles, the chief 'difference 

 being in the diameter of the mouth, which is smaller in the 

 American bottles. The latter style is to be preferred, because in 

 the former the pickles, when frequently opened, are more exposed 

 to the air than is good for them. Stone pots, which are no doubt 

 best for family use, are too expensive for commercial purposes, not 

 only as regards the first cost, but also on account of their weight, 

 which increases the cost of transportation. The bottles are always 

 provided with neat labels, and the corks generally covered with 

 tin-foil. 



The following general rules apply to the preparation of pickles : 

 The best quality of fruit must be gathered at the right time, 

 washed in fresh cold well-water, and placed for some time in 



