THE SECOND YEARS TREATMENT. 33 



red spider or other insects that may be left on them. 

 When painted let them be tied to the wires, and give 

 the surface of the border a slight prick over with a 

 fork, but beware of going so deep as to injure the roots. 

 Cover the surface of the border with horse-droppings to 

 the depth of 2 inches when they can be had : watering 

 over them enriches the border and feeds the roots, pre- 

 venting rapid radiation at same time. On the 1st of 

 February they may have fire-heat applied, beginning 

 as in the first year in regard to moisture and syringing. 

 As soon as the buds are broke, increase the heat at 

 night to 60, and by the time they have got some part 

 of their foliage fairly expanded, increase it 5 more, 

 running up 10 or 15 above this with sun-heat. The 

 atmosphere should be kept sufficiently moist by sprink- 

 ling the border and paths, if there is no steam-tray 

 on the pipes ; but avoid syringing the pipes when they 

 are hot, as this system raises a great cloud of steam 

 for a few minutes, doing more harm than good. What 

 the vine requires for its growth, with healthy foliage of 

 good texture, is an atmosphere not arid, but certainly 

 not steaming like that of a cucumber-frame. This 

 year, the laterals that form on the young rods must 

 be pinched at two leaves from the leading stems, 

 and those laterals that start on the 3 feet that was 

 left of last year's rod must have any bunches they show 

 picked off, with the exception of one or two that may 

 be left to prove the variety, and be stopped, say at 

 the fifth joint, and tied to the wires. When the lead- 

 ing shoot has gone half up the rafter, it may be stopped, 

 and then allowed to start again, and not stopped more. 

 The laterals below the middle of the house must also 



