64 THE DIFFERENT BUDDING OPERATIONS 



not do his own tying, but is followed by a boy who snugl3 r 

 wraps the bud with either cord or raffia. This should be 

 done immediately after the bud is inserted and the wraps 

 should be tight enough so the bud will be 'held firmly in 

 place and cannot dry out. The tie should be so made 

 that the growing point of the bud will not be covered. 

 It is usually best to place all the buds on one side of the 

 plant and away from the sun as much as possible. This 

 will help to prevent a possible injury from sun scald during 

 the winter. In some of the more arid regions of the west, 

 it is necessary to cover the tie with wax as an additional 

 precaution against drying. 



After Treatment. If the intention is to produce a 

 June bud, four or five inches are cut off the top of the plant 

 as soon as the bud is in place. If a dormant bud is desired, 

 no pruning will be necessary until the following spring. 

 About ten days or two weeks after the buds have been 

 set, the trees should be gone over and the bands cut to pre- 

 vent them from drawing into the bark by the growth of the 

 tree. To produce successful June buds the trees have to 

 be gone over three or four times during the season and a 

 portion of the top cut off. This removing of the top forces 

 the bud from below and by the time it reaches one or two 

 inches the entire top can be cut close down to the bud so 

 that the young shoot will take all the sap. If the work 

 has been properly done the young shoots ought to be 

 eighteen inches or two feet by fall. 



For Dormant budding the work can be done any time 

 the bark will peel well, from July until late in the fall. It 

 is necessary to go over the trees and loosen the ties, but no 



