68 THE DIFFERENT BUDDING OPERATIONS 



cut should be made deep, and a part of the wood on the 

 underside removed so that the bark on the bud will fit 

 close to the wood of the stock and a larger cambium con- 

 tact made. The fingers should never touch the cambium 

 layers of either stock or bud as the oil from the hands is 

 sure to prevent their growth. The insertion should be 

 made very quickly to prevent wilting of the little leaflets, 

 and then tied in the same manner as for the other buds. 

 If narrow strips of waxed cloth ba used in place of raffia, 

 results will be better as there is less danger of drying. 



After three or four weeks, or as soon as the bud " takes," 

 the wrapping should be removed and part of the top cut 

 away to increase the flow of sap to the young shoot. If 

 the forcing is too much the bud may be flooded and the 

 work lost. As the season advances more of the top can be 

 removed, a little at a time, until the bud can take all of the 

 sap. The stock is then cut off just above the'bud making 

 a close, smooth scar which will soon%heal over. This 

 method is too tedious for commSrciai practice and is best 

 adapted to the working over of young trees or in adding 

 new branches where the shape of the tree is to be corrected. 



Bark Budding. This represents a type of propagation 

 that has been in use for a long tin^ but only in recent 

 years has become of general importance. It is best 

 adapted to thick-barked trees such as figs, walnuts, pecans, 

 etc. All of these kinds of fruit trees are much more dif- 

 ficult to bud than the common ones and even under the 

 present best known methods it is difficult to get a high 

 per cent to " take." The bark is too thick for the common 

 budding methods to work successfully, hence bark budding 



