SIMPLE CUTTINGS 119 



a seed bed and the cuttings set by means of an iron bar. 

 Holes are punched deep enough to admit the cutting, 

 leaving only the last bud sticking out. These are then 

 made compact in the soil by pushing the bar down a few 

 inches to the side. From fifty to eighty per cent will 

 take root by this method. 



Where the cuttings are made through the winter they 

 are taken to the callusing pit where they remain until 

 spring before setting in the nursery row. Where calluses 

 form, the cutting may be expected to grow; if the ends 

 have turned black it should be discarded. Where the 

 European varieties are grown, as on the Pacific Coast for 

 raisins, it often becomes necessary to graft the standard 

 varieties on to stock that is resistant to the grape phyl- 

 loxera. Most of the American species are resistant to this 

 insect hence they may be used for stock for the European 

 varieties. The cuttings are made in the usual way but 

 before rooting they are grafted to the desired variety as 

 illustrated in 6 Fig. 56. The union is very similar to the 

 one used in whip grafting apples, except that the cut is 

 more nearly straight across the stock. 



If the work is done carefully no tying or waxing will be 

 necessary. The buds below the graft are cut off so other 

 sprouts than the one desired will not start. One or two 

 buds on the bottom of the stock are left from which roots 

 can develop. After the grafting is done, the cutting, 

 graft and all, is placed in a special callusing bed where the 

 temperature can be controlled. Calluses form on the 

 ends of the cutting and at the union at the same time. 

 These remain in the beds until spring when they are trans- 



