98 HOW TO BUILD A SILO. 



forming the section I of the roof. The tin on the section 

 I should come over to the side of J. On the other sec- 

 tions it should run up on the side of K, making a water 

 tight joint. 



The sections G and H have slope of nearly 3 inches, 

 being the difference in height of A and C. C is notched 

 one inch at the outer end. (Van Norman.) 



Cheap Stave Silos. 



A foundation, bottom, and roofless stave silo was de- 

 scribed recently in Hoard's Dairyman, which may prove 

 of interest and value to some readers. It was put up on 

 a leased farm, with the expectation of removing it on the 

 termination of the lease. It has the sky for a roof, the 

 ground for a bottom, and no foundation but a 2x6 spruce 

 scantling to secure a level base for the wall, while pro- 

 tecting them from rotting on the ground. The silo has 

 a diameter of 24 feet, and is as high as could be built from 

 2x4 scantling without splicing them. The 2x4 spruce 

 scantlings were set 18 inches apart from center to center, 

 upon a 2x6 sill, directly upon the ground. It was sheeted 

 on the inside with two thicknesses of %x6 spruce, with 

 tar paper between. On the outside, at the bottom, half 

 way up, and at the top, were two, three, and two bands of 

 1x6 common fencing, respectively, and no other boarding. 

 The silo has a capacity of 250 tons, and was built at a 

 cost of $174.21. "We never had better silage than we are 

 now feeding out of this silo, though we did have to shovel 

 nearly a foot off of it a few days ago, when the silo was 

 opened." 



A Modification of the Stave Silo. 



Stave silos are admittedly cheap and readily put up, 

 but unless hoops are tightened as they dry out, they may 

 be easily blown into a shapeless mass in case of a heavy 

 gale. The modification of the stave silo described in the 

 following has the advantage of being more rigid and sub- 



