230 HOUSE PORTRAITURE. 



drawn as tightly as the force of the groom will permit. 

 The bridle ought to be so adjusted that the bit will not 

 draw into the corners of the mouth, yet close enough, so 

 that the winkers or blinds will have the right set the 

 fore-top straightened below the brow band so that the 

 hairs will not be broken. The breast-collar should come 

 above the points of the shoulders, without encroaching on 

 the windpipe. There is just the right place for the back 

 pad on every horse, viz. : where the springing of the 

 withers and the swelling of the ribs make it sit easily ; 

 this is, of course, regulated by the length of the crupper 

 strap. The breeching ought to be about level with the 

 stifles. 



When the horse has been placed in the shafts the 

 reins having been run through the martingale rings and 

 terrets first fasten the traces to the whiffletree, then 

 buckle the false girth. I follow this plan with horses 

 that are restive when being hitched to the sulky, for 

 should they want to start, you are in a situation to humor 

 them. Now buckle the holdbacks, placing them under 

 the traces, which will prevent the breeching flying up, 

 giving, of course, plenty of room. The breeching ought 

 to be so loose that you can draw it several inches away 

 from the quarters. Snubbing-straps I never use, having 

 found that, when the martingale is at its proper length, 

 there will be no undue pull on the girth. I think many 

 are prone to err in shortening the martingale so as to 

 make quite a sharp angle in the reins, reasoning, that 

 because a horse throws his head up in a break, there 

 must be a downward pull to "catch him." It is true, that, 

 with a short martingale, you get something of a pulley 

 purchase, perhaps not greatly augmenting your strength, 

 but allowing you to hold all you get. I am doubtful, 

 however, if the advantage gained is commensurate with 

 the injury done. The horse, unable to keep his feet, either 



