ZANZIBAR AND MOMBASA 5 



mind that even with a first-class ticket only 56 lbs. of luggage 

 can be taken free, and that a very exorbitant freight is charged 

 for every pound over weight. One small trunk for the cabin 

 usually represents the 56 lbs. allowed free. But there is no 

 need for any one to burden himself unnecessarily by taking 

 the whole lot of his belongings across France. The agent 

 in London of the French Company will take charge of all 

 the luggage, if delivered to his care a full fortnight before the 

 date fixed for the departure of the mail from Marseilles. The 

 I'-^S&'^S^ is then sent on by sea, and the passenger will find it 

 waiting for him at Marseilles when he arrives there. 



The journey from ^Marseilles to Zanzibar takes eighteen days; 

 this includes the unavoidable loss of time due to coaling at Port 

 Said and Djibouti. The French steamers are noted for their 

 remarkable punctuality as regards the advertised dates of depar- 

 ture and arrival. There have been considerable changes in the 

 mail-service, since I first journeyed down the Red Sea prior to the 

 opening of the Suez Canal. In those days we went by steamer 

 from Marseilles to Alexandria, then by train from Alexandria via 

 Cairo to Suez, and from there once more by steamer to our 

 destination. When the Suez Canal was opened, the Messageries 

 Maritimes boats touched at Aden, Messina, and Naples ; but 

 they do not do so now. 



From Marseilles to Port Said takes five days. Port Said has 

 become a busy centre ; it has attracted wealth and at the same 

 time the scum which caters for every evil passion. The steamer 

 coals here ; and as coaling implies dirt and discomfort, the 

 passenger takes refuge on shore. Whether one has seen the 

 place alreadv or not, it is always a pleasant change, and breaks 

 the monotony of a long sea-voyage, to take a stroll on shore. 



The Suez Canal is traversed in fifteen hours. There are pretty 

 bits of scenery and quaint glimpses of Eastern life revealed, as 

 the vessel steams slowly past the interminable expanse of sand. 



In passing through the canal, notwithstanding the apparent 

 sameness of the surroundings, the traveller may meet with very 

 different experiences. On one journey w'e traversed the canal 

 during the night. There were many English passengers, in- 

 cluding a good many Australians going to England for a holi- 

 day. A charming and graceful fancy-dress ball was promptly 

 organised and enlivened the occasion. On another journey we 

 steamed down the canal during the day. A fierce sandstorm 



