38 UNDER THE AFRICAN SUN 



Every caravan should be provided with a thoroughly good 

 native headman. Headmen now get as much as 40 to 60 rupees 

 per month, i.e. £2, los. to £^. They are allowed at least one and 

 very often two porters to carry their tent and private effects, 

 and they receive double the daily ration measured out to a 

 porter. The headman's duties are important and manifold. 

 He looks after the men, that they do not desert or shirk 

 their work, that they keep together, that they do not plunder or 

 rob friendly natives, that firewood is provided and camp-fires 

 are maintained at night, that night-watchmen are appointed 

 and do their work, that the cattle is protected against wild 

 beasts, that the men get their rations, and that, where necessary, 

 a sufficient supply of food for the caravan is obtained from the 

 natives. 



The headman has usually one or more **askaries" to help 

 him. The askari is a sort of assistant-headman, but he has two 

 specially important duties. He has to defend the caravan in 

 case of attack, and for this reason he is supplied with a rifle and 

 twenty rounds of ammunition. He also acts as porter in case 

 of emergency, and, as such, he has to shoulder the load of any 

 one taken suddenly ill. Askaries are paid £1 a month and 

 their rations, but thev have to carry their own kit ; a porter 

 is not allowed for their special use. 



The healthiest style of travelling is on foot. My very first 

 caravan journey, from Lake Nyassa to Kilwa, was on foot from 

 the day of departure to the day of arrival. But on the first 

 journey from Mombasa to Uganda, I rode nearly the whole 

 distance on a donkey. Those who can afford it ride a horse. 

 Some are very lucky in bringing their horses safely through the 

 tsetse region ; others are particularly unlucky. One man lost 

 his third and last horse in Kavirondo. The horse requires a 

 good groom, and constant care and protection against chills. 

 The donkey is simply let loose, and has to find its own food. 

 It is a very hardy animal, and wants next to no attention. The 

 white Muscat donkeys at Mombasa are rather expensive ; not 

 unfrequently they are dearer than horses. The donkey that 

 has suited my purse and requirements best, has been the 

 ordinary grey Masai donkey. The very first I had, fell one 

 day near Kilungu and sprained its leg which became so swollen 

 that the poor beast could not walk any further. It had to be 

 left behind, and was handed over to some friendly Wakamba. On 



