i88 UNDER THE AFRICAN SUN 



is neither better nor worse than the average Wanyoro chief, 

 though his face expresses cunning and self-indulgence. 



On the opposite or northern bank of the Nile dwells the 

 Lango race. They are not under British rule, but now and then 

 they come across in dug-outs and barter native produce (sweet- 

 potatoes and matama flour) in exchange for cloth and beads. I 

 had an opportunity of seeing them, when their chief Amien came 

 over with sons and followers to receive a Government present 

 of cotton cloth, white and coloured. He has a fine and stately 

 figure, though already "in the sere and yellow leaf" of age. He 

 wore a serval skin girt round his loins, an amulet or charm 

 round his neck, some bracelets, and an anklet. In spite of his 

 wrinkles there was a manly, hardy expression on his face. One 

 glance, at him and his followers, would suffice to pick him out 

 as the am| uvSpwu of his tribe, as Kingsley would express it. It 

 is noteworthy, that he did not affect the curious headgear adopted 

 by his tribe. Most of his men, including his two sons, had their 

 wool plaited into a bun-shaped excrescence on the occiput, 

 ornamented with beads and well-lubricated with grease and 

 mud. Some of the warrior dandies wore huge wigs of bright- 

 coloured feathers. Every one, man or boy, was clothed with 

 a small apron of cloth or goat-skin. The women go about 

 naked, but are fond of decking themselves with ornaments. 



The serval is a carnivorous animal of the cat tribe. Judging 

 by the skins brought for sale, there must be a great many 

 different species of it. Some have tiny spots set close together, 

 and are of a brown colour ; others are bright orange-yellow, 

 with large handsome black spots. I have seen them sold at 

 Kampala brand-new at two shillings each. 



One day two Lango natives, a boy and a man, evidently 

 father and son, crossed to our side. The boy wore already the 

 national ornament, a tiny bun on his occiput ; in his arms he 

 held a long-legged white chicken which he wanted to barter 

 for cloth. 



Government officials, I have been told, are prohibited from 

 crossing the Nile at Fovira, but judging from what one can see 

 of the opposite bank from a distance, the Lango are a thriving 

 agricultural race, with numerous and well-peopled hamlets. With 

 the exception of certain landing-places, the dense papyrus growth 

 draws an impenetrable barrier some hundreds of yards wide 

 along both sides of the river. 



