THE BRITISH ANGLER'S LEXICON. 199 



it perfectly round when finished. It should possess a 

 gradual taper from the handle or gripping position to 

 where the ferrule is fitted. The handle should be from 

 fourteen to eighteen inches long, according to the length of 

 rod and style required. The top of the butt may be made 

 to suit a ferrule twelve-sixteenths in diameter. Some 

 makers can finish their rods well with the plane ; others 

 with files and scraping. It is of good service to the rod 

 maker, in planing up his pieces, if he has on the bench a 

 piece of wood with a V-shaped groove running up it, in 

 which he can place the piece of the rod that he is planing. 

 The butt may now have the ferrule fitted and the joint 

 bored, if for a taper joint, which in all high class rods is 

 double brazed (q.v.) ; if it is for a plain spliced joint, it is 

 sloped; if for the flexible joint, it is fitted with the pin 

 used in this joint (q.v.) ; in either case it must be made to 

 suit the counter or joint of the middle piece, which may 

 next be proceeded with. This piece is planed down in the 

 same way as the butt octagon first and then circular, with 

 a slight taper until it is the size to suit the counter at the 

 large end and the ferrule at the small end. Then the top 

 piece is proceeded with, and when reduced to what is 

 considered the proper size the rod may be put together. 

 The joints, though nearly in their places, are not yet driven 

 home, as some manipulation is necessary before the rod is 

 considered satisfactory in its feel ; the brasses may have 

 to be turned several times on their bearings before the right 

 "feel " is obtained. To judge this, take the rod in the right 

 hand, at the place where it is intended to be held, press the 

 point against the ceiling or a wall, and note whether the 

 curve the rod takes be regular or not ; any stiff or straight 

 portions that refuse to curve symmetrically may be worked 



