CHRYSANTHEMUM 



CHRYSANTHEMUM 



307 



growths are brittle, are the best times for the work. 

 Some growers speak of first, second and third buds. 

 The first is a crown, and generally appears on early 

 propagated plants from July 15 to August 15. If re- 



456. Terminal buds of Chrysanthemum at an early stage. 

 None too early for disbudding. 



moved, the lateral growths push forward, forming an- 

 other bud. In many cases where the crowns are removed 

 early, the next bud is not a terminal , but a second crown, 

 which is termed the second bud. Remove this, and the 

 third bud will be the terminal. Plants propagated in 

 May and June generally give the second and third bud, 

 not forming the typical crown. Those struck in July 

 and planted late give the terminal only. Most of the 

 best blooms are from second crown and terminal. Pink, 

 bronze and red flowers from first crowns are much 

 lighter in color than those from later buds. They are 

 large, but very often abnormal to such an extent as to 

 be decidedly inferior. This is doubtless due to the large 

 amount of food utilized in their construction, owing to 

 the long time consumed in development. The hot 

 weather of September and October must have a detri- 

 mental effect upon the color. Consult Figs. 454-457. 



8. Enemies. Green and black aphis are the most 

 destructive insects. Through the summer months to- 

 bacco dust broadcasted over the plants is an effective 

 remedy. At the approach of cool weather it is best to 

 resort to light fumigations of tobacco. Grasshoppers are 

 sometimes very destructive. Handpicking is conceded 

 to be the best method, although if there are quantities 

 of small ones a weak solution of Paris green may be re- 

 sorted to. 



Stibsection II. Culture of Chrysanthemums in pots. 



The same principles are employed in pot culture as 

 when planted upon the bench, with the exception that 

 the plants are generally allowed to produce more blooms. 

 The most popular type of pot plant for home growing, 

 or for sale by florists and intended for home use, is a 

 compact, bushy plant, l%-2 ft. high, branched at the 

 base, and bearing from 4-20 fls. averaging 3-4 in. across. 

 They are here called "market plants." "Single-stem 

 plants " are also popular. Great quantities of large fls. 

 (say 20-100) are rarely grown on a potted plant, except 

 for exhibitions. Such plants are commonly called " speci- 

 mens," and the three leading forms are the bush, the 

 standard and the pyramid. 



1. Market Plants. Dwarf plants of symmetrical 

 form, with foliage down to the pots, are the most salable, 

 and, when thus grown, require constant attention as 



to watering and stopping, allowing each plant plenty of 

 room to keep the lower leaves in a healthy condition. 

 Cuttings taken June 1 and grown in pots, planted on 

 old carnation benches or in spent hotbeds (light soil 

 preferable), and lifted by August 15, will make very 

 nice plants 1-1K ft. high. The reason for lifting early 

 is to have them well established in their flowering pots 

 before the buds are formed. 



2. Single-stem Plants. Same culture as market 

 plants, except that they are restricted to one stem and 

 flower. Those from 1-2 ft. in height are more effective 

 and useful than tall ones. For this reason many prefer 

 plunging the pots out of doors vhere they have the full 

 benefit of the sun and air, making them more dwarf 

 than when grown under glass. 



3. Pot Plants for Cut- flowers. Culture same as for 

 specimen plants, except that the nipping should be dis- 

 continued July 1 to give sufficient length to the 

 stems. If large flowers are desired, restrict the plants. 

 to 8 or 10 growths. Such plants can be accommodated 

 in less space than specimens, where the chief object is 

 symmetry. 



4. Bush Plants. For large bush plants, the cuttings 

 should be struck early in February, and grown along in 

 a cool, airy house, giving attention to repotting as often 

 as necessary. The final potting into 10- or 12-inch pots 

 generally takes place in June. They are potted moder- 

 ately firm, and watered sparingly until well rooted. As 

 soon as the plants are 5 or 6 in. high the tips should be 

 pinched out, to induce several growths to start. As the 

 season advances and the plants make rapid growth, 

 pinching must be attended to every day up to the latter 

 part of July, to give as many breaks as possible and 

 keep them in symmetrical form. By the middle of Au- 

 gust (if not previously attended to), staking and getting 

 the plants in shape will be a very important detail. If 

 stakes are used, they must be continually tied-out, as 

 the stems soon begin to harden, and this work can be 

 best accomplished by looking them over daily. Light 



457. Terminal buds at a later stage. 

 The top one is usually the strongest, and being re- 

 tained, is called "the terminal hud." The others 

 should have been removed long before they were 

 as large as here shown. 



stakes of any material may be used. Many other meth- 

 ods are in use, such as wire hoops and wire frame-work, 

 to which the growths are securely tied. 



