DAHLIA 



DAHLIA 



451 



the roots to go down deep after the moisture more readily 

 during dry weather, but affords good drainage during 

 excessive rains. Having prepared the soil as above, 

 mark out rows 4 ft. apart and (i to 8 in. deep, and phmt 

 the roots from 18 in. to ^ ft. apart in the row, according 

 as solid rows or specimen plants are. desired. 



During its early stage of development, the Dahlia 

 grows very rapidly, and should be kept thoroughly 

 tilled. But while deep tillage is beneficial during its 

 early stages of development, it is almost fatal to the 

 production of flowers if practiced after the plants come 

 into bloom. Therefore, when the plants commence to 

 bloom, cease deep tillage and stir the soil to the depth 

 of 1 to IJ in. only, but stir it often, and never allow the 

 surface to become hard and baked. This will not only 

 prevent excessive evaporation of moisture and keep the 

 under soil cool and moist, but will also prevent the de- 

 struction of immense quantities of feeding roots. 



As long as the roots supply more nourishment than is 

 needed to support the plant, both the plant and the 

 Mowers increase in size and beauty; but as the supply 

 crnidually becomes exhausted, the plants cease growing 

 and the flowers become much smaller. This condition is 

 what is generally called "bloomed out," but what is really 

 'starved out, "and can easily be prevented if the proper 

 attention is given to the plants. As soon as the flowers 

 commence to grow smaller, broadcast around each plant 

 a small handful of pure bone meal and nitrate of soda, 

 in proportion four parts bone to one part soda, and care- 

 fully work it into the soil. 



WATERING. -This is a debatable subject, and, al- 

 though a judicious application of water during a severe 

 dry spell is very beneficial, yet in nine cases out of 

 every ten where water is applied a thorough stirring of 

 the surface soil would give better results. 



Many people believe Dahlias should be watered every 

 evening, and as soon as they are up commence watering 

 them daily unless it rains. This practice is very inju- 

 rious, as it causes a rapid but soft growth, and as the 

 soil is seldom stirred, the roots become so enfeebled for 

 want of air that they are unable to supply the needs of 

 the plant ; as a consequence, but few buds are formed, 

 and they generally blast before developing into flowers. 

 In other cases, as the enthusiasm wears off, watering is 

 stopped, probably right at the beginning of a severe 

 drought, and the weak, pampered plants are fortunate 

 to survive, much less to bloom. 



If large, strong roots are planted and the soil is kept 

 thoroughly stirred, there will be little need of artificial 

 watering until after the plants come out in full bloom. 

 However, if it should become hot and dry after the 

 Dahlias come into bloom, it would be very beneficial to 

 give them a thorough watering once each week or ten 

 (Jays during the continuance of the drought. But care 

 should be taken to stir the soil to the depth of 1-2 in. 

 the next day, carefully pulverizing it later, in order to 

 seal the natural capillary tubes by which the moisture 

 is evaporated. 



The best rule to follow is not to allow the plants to 

 suffer for want of moisture, nor to water them except 

 where they need it, but to water them thoroughly when 

 necessary, and not to allow excessive evaporation for 

 want of frequent stirring of the soil. 



TRAINING. In planting the roots or tubers, place 

 them on their sides with the eye as near the bottom as 

 possible, and cover only 2-3 in. deep. As soon as the 

 shoots appear, remove all but the strongest one, and 

 pinch out the center of that one as soon as two or three 

 pairs of leaves have formed, thus forcing it to branch 

 below the level of the ground. As the plants develop, 

 the soil is filled in gradually by subsequent hoeings. By 

 this method the entire strength of the root and the soil 

 is concentrated on the one shoot, causing it to grow 

 vigorously; while the pinching back not only causes it 

 to branch below the surface of the soil, and thus brace 

 it against all storms, but also removes all of those im- 

 perfect, short-stemmed flowers that appear on some 

 varieties. If the plants are pinched back low, as described, 

 there is no danger of the branches splitting down, as the 

 soil around themwill hold them securely in place. How- 

 ever, where they branch above ground and are inclined 

 to split down, drive a short, stout stake near the stem 

 and tie the branches to it. These short stakes are not to 



hold the plants up, "but to prevent the branches splitting 

 down where the above directions have not been followed 

 closely. 



The writer was the first to use and advocate this 

 method of training, and by its practice has grown many 

 thousands of Dahlia blooms 

 on stems from 18 in. to 2 ft. 

 long, selling them to florists 

 by the thousands for four 

 times the ruling price of 

 carnations, and higher than 

 that asked for roses. 



667. Dahlia coccinea. 



See the Botanical Magazine, 



1804, plate 762. 



STORING THE ROOTS. As soon as the plants are killed 

 by frost, lift the roots, and, after removing all the soil 

 from them possible, allow them to dry in the air for a 

 few hours, when they should be stored in the cellar or 

 some other cool place secure from frost. If the cellar is 

 very dry or is not frost proof, put the roots in a barrel 

 or box and cover completely with dry sand or some 

 other suitable and convenient material, such as sawdust 

 or tanbark, to prevent freezing or loss of vitality by 

 drying or shriveling. 



VARIETIES. For cut-flowers, the Decorative or Cactus 

 hybrid kinds are the most valuable, and the following 

 are among the very best : Nympheea, Clifford W. 

 Bruton, Henry Patrick, Grand Duke Alexis, Wm. Agnew, 

 Perle de la Tete d'Or, Evadne, Orange King, Sundew, 

 Mrs. E. C. Monroe. The Cactus Dahlias are beautiful 

 and artistic, but will not last long after being cut. The 

 best are : Aiger, Austin Cannell, Strohlein Kronne, 

 Henry F. Michell, Mrs. Bennett, John W. Roach, Geo. 

 Marlow, Loreley, Beatrice and Mrs. Peart. 



Of the Show Dahlias, among the best are : Miss May 

 Lomas, A. D. Livoni, Storm King, Emily, Ruby Queen, 

 Arabella, Constancy, Queen of Yellows, Willie Garrett, 

 Lady Maud Herbert. 



Fancy : Frank Smith, Miss Browning, Penelope, 

 American Flag, Lottie Eckford, Uncertainty. Of the 

 Pompon or Bouquet Dahlias, the best are Snowclad, 

 Fairy Queen, Daybreak, Eleganta, Little Prince, Le Petit 

 Jean, Carol, Little Beauty, Yellow Bird and Red Piper. 

 The Single varieties are especially adapted for cutting, 

 but should be cut as soon as opened, otherwise the 

 petals will fall. 



For bedding, the plants must be dwarf, of branching 

 habit, and profuse bloomers. A few desirable kinds are: 

 Marg. Bruant, Magnificent, Triomphe de Solferino, 

 Colibre, Snowclad, Sunbeams, Mrs. Dodd and Bloom- 

 enfalter. 



For Massing and Banking. Cactus : Aegir, Stroh- 

 lein Kronne, Mrs. A. Beck, Cyclops, Baron Schroeder. 



Decorative: Wm. Agnew. C. W. Bruton, Perle de 



