ORCHID 



ORCHID 



1167 



Ing any decayed and bruised parts, they may be potted 

 and basketed, and removed to their proper quarters, 

 watering sparingly until they start new action. 



It is customary in some establishments to hang newly 

 imported Orchids by the roots, tops down, from the roof 



of the house or beneath 

 the benches until they 

 show signs of new action, 

 but they invariably suf- 

 fer more or less from 

 this practice and are bet- 

 ter treated as above. 



Pots, Baskets, etc. 

 Many Orchids are best 

 cultivated in the ordinary 

 earthen pots and pans, 

 more especially terres- 

 trial species and a few 

 of the epiphytal kinds, 

 which grow on rocks in 

 marshes, and among 

 quantities of humus and 

 fern roots. A majority 

 of the epiphytal species, 

 however, need special 

 structures that will ad- 

 mit air to circulate freely 

 to the roots; otherwise, 



1575. Commonest and best style 

 of basket for general culture 

 of Orchids with pendulous 

 scapes. 



1576. An Orchid 



cylinder. 



Used for very tall 



species. 



these are liable to decay through excess of water if con- 

 fined in close pots when inactive during winter, which 

 must eventually weaken the constitution of the plants. 

 Figures 1575-1583 fairly illustrate the best and most 

 practical pots and baskets for successful cultxire. Fig. 

 1575 shows the Orchid basket most commonly used ; it 

 is the best adapted for the general cul- 

 ture of Cattleyas, Coryanthes, Den- 

 drobiums, Epidendrums, Laelias, Mas- 

 devallias of the Chimsera section, On- 

 cidiums, and a majority of Orchids with 

 pendulous flower-scapes. They can be 

 made of cedar, teak-wood, cypress, or 

 any durable wood. The wood is cut 

 into square (or round) sticks of any 

 length desirable and in proportionate 

 thickness from %-l in., and carefully 

 perforated at each end. Through the 

 holes is inserted a strong wire, which 

 is looped at the upper end when finished 

 in order to receive the wire hanger. 

 These baskets can be as deep as de- 

 sired, but three sticks on each of the four sides are 

 -usually enough for most Orchids, with two or three 

 placed crosswise through the bottom, to hold the com- 

 post. The hanger is made by twisting together and 

 bending down in the middle two pieces 

 of galvanized or copper wire, forming 

 four ends to insert in the basket-loops 

 and a loop or hook at the top by which 

 to suspend it. 



The Orchid cylinder (Fig. 1576) is 

 very useful for standing on the bench 

 or pit, and is used for Renantheras, 



ITfftTlr'l A6rides > Vandas, Angrsecums, Epi- 

 dendrums, and many other tall plants 

 I I I I that are too tall or difficult to suspend. 

 Cylinders are made in all sizes and any 

 diameter desired, with either square or 

 round sticks. They are bored a short 

 distance from the ends and a wire in- 

 serted through them, with a small 

 block between each stick, to make an 

 opening for air. When large enough 

 the sides are brought together and 

 fastened. The depth is adjusted by 

 movable cross-pieces. 



The Orchid raft (Fig. 1577) is made 

 in much the same way as the cylinder, 

 but is left flat with the openings be- 

 tween closer together. Oblong-square 

 blocks of hard, rough wood, an inch or less thick, 

 answer much the same purpose. The Orchid raft or 

 block is very useful for many species, such as Cctttlej/a 

 titrina, Barkerias, Epidendrum falcatum, Dendrobium 



74 



1577. 



An Orchid raft. 

 Used for much 

 the same purpose 

 as the cylinder. 



1578. 



Earthen basket. 

 For Stanho- 

 peas and other 

 Orchids, whose 

 pendulous 

 scapes issue 

 through the 

 holes in the bot- 

 tom. 



Jenkinsii, Oncidium Limminghii and Papilio, Scuti- 

 carias, etc. 



The earthen basket (Fig. 1578) is useful when the 

 compost is fine and when the roots do not require much 

 atmospheric action; also to properly mature tissue in a 

 few terrestrial species, thereby inducing them to flower 

 more freely. The earthen basket is especially useful 

 for Acinetas, Peristerias with pendulous scapes, Stan- 

 hopeas, etc. ; it is made with ovate openings around the 

 sides and a round one in the center to 

 admit pendulous scapes. 



The perforated pan (Fig. 1579) is usu- 

 ally made only in small sizes and used 

 for Bulbophyllums, the concolor type 

 of Cypripedium, Dendrobiums, and 

 many other small-growing species that 

 do well suspended from the roof. 



The perforated Orchid pot (Fig. 

 1580) is for bench use and is useful 

 for many epiphytal Orchids that are 

 not to be suspended, the perforations 

 or holes supplying abundant air to the 

 roots, a safeguard against losing them 

 through overwatering in winter. 



Figs. 1581 and 1582 show the stand- 

 ard earthen pot and pan for terrestrial 

 species. They should have the drain- 

 age holes made on the side at the base, 

 instead of directly underneath, as a 

 preventive against earth-worms enter- 

 ing from the benches. 



Potting, Soil, etc., for Terrestrial Orchids. Terres- 

 trial Orchids as a general rule grow best under pot cul- 

 ture. Potting material for the following genera Acan- 

 thephippium, Bletia, Calanthe, Cymbidium, Cypripe- 

 dium insigne and most of the hardy species, Cyrtopo- 

 dium, Habenaria,Liparis, Microstylis,Peristeria,Phaius, 

 Pleione, Sobralia, Thunia, and some others should con- 

 sist of about one-third each of chopped sod with some 

 of the fine soil removed, chopped live sphagnum and 

 leaf -mold, adding a little ground bone for some of the 

 strong- growing kinds. One -third of the pot space 

 should be devoted to clean drainage, covered with sphag- 

 num or rough material to keep it open. After removing 

 all decayed portions, the roots should be carefully dis- 

 tributed and the compost worked in gently but firmly 

 around them, leaving the surface a little convex and 

 slightly below the rim of the pot as in Fig. 1581 (the 

 dotted lines denote drainage required). The convex 

 surface gives the rhizome an opportunity to dry out fre- 

 quently, thus avoiding fungi, which are troublesome to 

 some species. 



In repotting terrestrial Orchids sufficient pot room 

 should be given to last a year or two if possible, as they 

 dislike to have their roots disturbed oftener than is 

 necessary. The best time to repot is just before the 

 rooting period, or when they are starting their new 

 growths in spring. The deciduous species of Calanthe 

 can be easily increased at this time, 

 if desired, by removing the old bulbs 

 and placing a number together in a 

 pan or shallow box, covering them 

 partly with compost and placing them 

 in a warm house until they start action, 

 after which time they should be potted 

 as desired, two or three together. 



Anosctochilus, Arpophyllums, Cypri- 

 pediums, Disas,Goodyeras, Spathoglot- 

 tis, and many allied genera, grow best 

 under pot culture, but otherwise re- 

 quire compost and treatment similar 

 to the epiphytal kinds. 



Potting, Basketing, and Compost 

 for Epiphytal Orchids. The roots of 

 epiphytal Orchids are usually very 

 porous, and many are covered with a 

 corky substance (velamen), capable of 

 absorbing and retaining water for con- 

 siderable time. In their native homes a great many of 

 the roots are aerial or grow in loose, fibrous material, 

 such as moss and the fine roots of Polypodiums and other 

 ferns, where they have free access of air at all times. 

 It is important that they receive similar treatment un- 



1579. 



Perforated pan. 

 Adapted t o 

 small Orchids 

 that do well 

 when suspended 

 from the roof. 



