1254 



PECAN 



PECAN 



common orchard trees were rarely successful, and the 

 opinion became prevalent that this species could not be 

 budded or grafted. Various devices for propagating 

 by layers, by upturned roots and root-cuttings were 

 suggested and tested at different times, but none of 

 these proved of permanent value. 



The first really successful work in graft-propagation 

 seems to have been by crown-grafting on Pecan stocks. 

 This is most commonly practiced in early spring on 

 stocks in place, having a crown diameter of from 1 inch 

 to 2 or 3 inches. The stock should be cut off smoothly 

 at the crown and grafted either by splice, or side-cleft 

 graft, according to size of stock. Cions with terminal 

 buds are preferable, and they should in all cases be so cut 

 that but one scarf exposes the pith. In this method no 

 wax is used, but the grafted stump is carefully mounded 

 up with moist earth to the top bud of the cion, to 

 prevent drying out. In the humid and mild climate of 

 the Gulf states, this is probably the most promising 

 method for the inexperienced amateur. Bench-splice 

 root-grafting on 6-inch top sections of one-year-old seed- 

 lings has been fairly successful in some cases, but 

 grafts set on lower sections of root are not considered 

 worthy of planting out. Annular budding on the new 

 wood of second-year seedlings yields a considerable 

 proportion of success when favorable climatic condi- 

 tions prevail, but in unfavorable seasons, as of extreme 

 drought or heavy rainfall, it results in almost total fail- 

 ure even with expert operators. 



Top-working of the Pecan is generally difficult, only 

 a small percentage of success usually being obtained 



1695. Outlines, showing variation in the Pecan (X%). 

 All grown from nuts from one tree. 



with any method. On young trees of Pecan, Water 

 Hickory (H. aquatica) or Mocker nut (H. alba), not 

 exceeding one inch in diameter, occasional success by 

 splice-grafting is obtained in Florida. Diagonal side- 

 grafting on various hickory stocks is also occasionally 

 successful in Florida, but no orchards of commercial 

 importance have as yet resulted from any of these 

 methods of propagation. 



The most promising results in the top-working of 

 Pecan trees that have yet been obtained are probably 

 those of E. E. Risien, San Saba, Texas, who finds annu- 

 lar budding in June or July of strong shoots of the 

 growth of the current season the best method. An 

 abundant crop of such shoots is secured by cutting 

 back the trees severely in March, using a cross-cut saw 

 if necessary, as is sometimes the case on large trees. 

 If the tree is old and the bark hard, the pushing of buds 

 is stimulated by hacking the bark of the stubbed trunk 



and branches with a hatchet. The budding is done 

 when the shoots attain the size of an ordinary lead pen- 

 cil. Budding done on dry days is found to yield much 

 the best results, especially if followed by several days 

 of dry weather. The cions must be thoroughly pro- 

 tected against drying out between removal from the 

 tree and budding, however; and the "tying in," for 

 which strips of old cotton cloth are used 'in preference 

 to stronger material, must be thoroughly done, to insure 

 success. When all conditions are favorable, thrifty 

 seedling trees are quickly transformed to choice varie- 

 ties in this way, and begin to bear good crops within 

 three or four years after the operation is performed. 

 Fig. 1694 shows such a tree during the fourth season 

 after budding. The tin guards about the trunks are 

 found necessary in that section to protect both young 

 nuts and tender shoots from destruction by squirrels 

 during the summer. 



Distance, Method of Planting, and Cultivation. From 

 its large size it is clear that the Pecan should not be 

 crowded. Most of the orchards planted have been at 

 distances of 40 or 50 feet, but experience would indicate 

 that 60 feet is a safer distance. Where seedling trees 

 are depended upon it is probably advisable to plant 

 closer together on the start, with a view to cutting 

 out the trees bearing inferior nuts as soon as their true 

 character is discovered. As at least half of the. seed- 

 lings of any given lot may be expected to yield nuts very 

 much inferior in size to the seed planted, it is probably 

 wise to plant about double the number that are desired 

 as permanent trees. The subsequent thinning out will 

 leave the trees irregularly placed, but until bud propa- 

 gation of the species, both in nursery and orchard, is 

 better understood and more successfully done than at 

 present this is probably the safest and most economi- 

 cal method for the orchard planter to adopt. In the 

 earlier days many planters advocated and practiced 

 planting the nuts where the trees were to remain in the 

 orchard, usually planting two or three in a place to in- 

 sure a "stand." The difficulty of protecting the young 

 trees from injury and the consequent uneven character 

 of the orchards have caused most of the later plantings 

 to be made from the nursery row at the age of one or 

 two years. If planted on strong and well-prepared soil 

 to insure a vigorous growth the first season after re- 

 moval to the orchard, one-year-old trees are probably 

 preferable. The tap-root of the one-year-old Pecan tree 

 is usually two or three times as long as the top, and 

 more care in digging from the nursery rows is neces- 

 sary than with most trees. No harm will result from 

 a moderate shortening-in of the tap-root, however. In 

 fact, the tree is probably benefited by the more spread- 

 ing root system that results from this practice. 



If the nuts are to be planted either in nursery row or 

 orchard they should, if of valuable varieties, be stratified 

 in sand during the winter and planted out as early in 

 spring as the ground can be worked. If of common 

 sorts or in regions where mice and squirrels do not 

 abound, they may safely be planted in well-drained soil 

 before winter sets in. Ordinary nursery cultivation will 

 usually suffice, but nothing necessary to insure a strong 

 and vigorous growth the first season should be left 

 undone. Digging from nursery row is most easily done 

 with a horse tree-digger, which cuts the roots at a suf- 

 ficient depth to avoid injuring the trees. 



The soil for orchard planting should be thoroughly 

 prepared, and, if not naturally rich, should be well fer- 

 tilized with well-rotted stable manure or some fertilizer 

 rich in available nitrogen. Much depends upon securing 

 a strong growth of both root and top the first year after 

 transplanting. If proper care is taken to cultivate and 

 fertilize the trees they are probably not injured by crop- 

 ping with ordinary hoed crops for four or five years, 

 especially if occasional leguminous crops, like crimson 

 clover, cow pea or velvet bean, are plowed in. After 

 trees reach maturity in thrifty condition, cultivation is 

 probably less important, though some of the most pro- 

 ductive trees reported are in fields regularly planted 

 with cultivated crops. 



Harvesting and Marketing. The common method of 

 harvesting is to gather the nuts at intervals of a few 

 days as they fall, sometimes hastening the dropping by 

 beating the bunches lightly with bamboo or other light 



