ROSE 



able, since it is not as hardy as the Manetti and is still 

 more likely to throw up suckers from the roots, in 

 which respect the Manetti is bad enough, lloxa cdiiiiui 

 (Dog Rose) and Rosa polyaufha are largely used in 

 Europe as stocks upon which to graft Hoses. They 

 have never been largely used in this country, tin- Ma- 

 netti seeming to be the favorite here. All of these 

 stocks are grown more extensively in France than any- 

 where else. The Jfosa Manetti and Jfosa multiflora 

 de la Griffftrie are grown from cuttings in France, and 

 are .shipped from there at the end of the 

 first season ; when received here they are 

 trimmed back closely, both as to the roots 

 and the branches, and planted the following 

 spring. They are budded the following 

 summer, usually the latter part of .June or 

 early part of July, whenever the stocks are 

 in such condition that the bark peels read- 

 ily. The bud, of course, remains dormant 

 during that season, but the spring follow- 

 ing the top of the stock is cut off just above 

 the bud, and it is allowed to grow. With a 

 good season, the buds usually make suffi 

 cient growth to be salable the following 

 fall. The foregoing is written solely in 

 connection with the outdoor growing of 

 Roses. Except to provide good rich deep 

 soil of fairly heavy quality, there are no special 

 cultural directions that the writer cares to insist 

 upon. 



Rose plants are not often attacked by any fun- 

 gous disease, save perhaps mildew, which occasionally 

 makes its appearance consequent to sudden climatic 

 changes, such as occur toward fall, when the tem- 

 perature may be at 80-90 one day and 40-45 the next. 

 An application of Bordeaux mixture is of value in 

 checking mildew. 



The greater proportion of Roses handled by the 

 undersigned are propagated from cuttings, and conse- 

 quently are on their own roots. In growing Roses in 

 this way, it is customary to take into the greenhouses 

 about the first of December the best and strongest 

 plants that are in stock; then cut them back so as to 

 leave only two or three eyes upon each shoot, pot them 

 and place them in a cool house, where they are allowed 

 to stand two or three weeks without a great deal of 

 heat. They soon begin to make roots; and when tha 

 white roots show through the soil about the edge of the 

 pot, they are given a little more heat and brought on 

 more rapidly. They are then forced until just ready 

 to flower, and before the wood has become too hard 

 the plants are cut back and the severed wood made up 

 into one-eye cuttings, which are placed in propagating 

 beds of sand and given gentle bottom heat, where they 

 take root in the course of two to four weeks, accord- 

 ing to variety and the condition of the wood.- After 

 thoroughly rooted, they are potted into 2- or 2%-inch 

 pots and grown on until late in the spring or early 

 summer, when it is safe to plant them out in the fields. 

 There they will remain two seasons, usually, and by 

 that time attain sufficient size to be dug and marketed. 



JACKSON & PERKINS Co. 



Kose Forcing. There is no branch of floriculture in 

 this country that in any way approaches Rose forcing in 

 importance, when commercial and private practice are 

 considered. The large number of private greenhouses 

 erected for the cultivation of the Rose by wealthy 

 people in this country within the last decade cannot be 

 adequately estimated. But the great demand for choice 

 Roses among all classes of buyers throughout the coun- 

 try has produced an enormous increase in commercial 

 greenhouses specially erected for growing and forcing 

 Roses, and each year sees some improvement in the 

 style of construction as well as in methods of cultiva- 

 tion. The general principles of Rose-growing are prac- 

 tically the same now as they were twenty years ago, 

 but the details or small items, as many are pleased to 

 term them, are constantly being improved. To make 

 the method of successful cultivation quite plain to every 

 one, the undersigned will endeavor to detail closely each 

 operation, from the cutting to the full bearing plant. 

 Types of forcing Roses are shown in Figs. 2189 and 

 2190. 



ROSE 



1575 



We shall presume that a propagating house is to be 

 prepared for starting the younir stock. This is u green- 

 house in which a hottoiii heat of not le<^ than GO can be 

 maintained as long as the cuttings are in the Hand (lur- 

 ing the winter; the mean temperature of such a house 

 should be about 53 or 56. The style or position of the 

 house is of no great consequence if the above tempera- 

 ture can be maintained. Start, then, by making a bench 

 having space for sand 2^-3 inches deep. Take a clean, 

 sharp, gritty sand, without any coarse stones in it, 

 spread it evenly all over the bench, then beat it 

 with a brick or block of wood until it is firm; water 

 it with a tine rose watering pot, and all will be ready 

 for the cuttings. The best time to start prop- 

 agating for the coming season's planting is 

 about the middle to end of January. Hav- 

 ing the above all ready, select 

 good, clean, healthy shoots of 2 

 or 3 eyes in length, preferably 

 those just below where a bud 

 has been cut ; cut the bottom 



2188. Grafting of Crimson Rambler on Rosa multiflora. 



Showing plant three months old. At the right is shown the 

 detail of the splice-graft. 



leaf clean off close to the eye; make a clean cut diagon- 

 ally across the shoot just below the bottom eye. If the 

 leaves are large and heavy, remove the end or fifth leaf- 

 let. Then, with a lath about 2 inches wide laid straight 

 across the bench and held firm by the left hand, and 

 with a thin knife in the right hand, draw a line about 

 1% inches deep in the sand; in this place the cutting, 

 pressing each down to the bottom of the opening, leav- 

 ing just enough room between each cutting so that the 

 leaves do not overlap each other. As soon as the row is 

 full, press the sand as firmly as possible around each 

 cutting; then give a good watering with a fine rose 

 watering pot. Repeat the same operation on each suc- 

 cessive row till the whole are put in. Shade from bright 

 sun and never allow the cutting to suffer for want of 

 water. If the weather should be at all warm, a light 

 syringing overhead daily will greatly benefit the cut- 

 tings ; never use very cold water on them, but water of 

 about the same temperature as that of the air. Treated 

 as above, the cuttings should be nicely rooted in about 

 30 days; and as soon as they have made roots about 

 % in. long they should be carefully lifted from the sand 

 with a flat stick to avoid breaking their roots, and potted 

 In 2- or 2%-inch pots, using a good fresh soil with only 

 a little manure added, not more than 1 part manure to 

 8 of soil. As fast as potted they should be placed in a 



