1984 



WINTER PROTECTION 



and occasionally sprinkled with the hose. Do not attach 

 the woodwork until the concrete is fully hardened. One 

 and one-half barrels of cement make about one cubic 

 yard of concrete, that costs, in place, between five and 

 six dollars, somewhat less if the cost of labor, sand and 

 gravel is moderate. 

 Build in June or July, 

 so that the concrete will 

 be thoroughly dry before 

 frost. 



The construction of a 

 brick roof is shown in 

 Fig. 2741, No. 4. Con- 

 crete could also be used. 

 A good grade hotbed 

 sash makes the best 

 glass roof. All sills, 

 cross-bars, etc., should 

 be made of cypress and 

 painted. The woodwork 

 must be made strong to 

 endure the continual ex- 

 posures. It is false econ- 

 omy to stint in quan- 

 tity or quality. In cel- 

 lars for nursery stock, 

 Figs. 2737-41, a compara- 

 tively small amount of 

 light is required, and the 

 low roof is boarded in 

 and shingled, building paper being used. Planks may 

 be substituted for boards, or the roof may be double. 



Sand or gravel, one foot deep, makes the best floor, 

 or half sand and half loam where plants are to be 

 heeled-in. A concrete floor should be used only where 

 the drainage is absolutely perfect. 



The sides and ends should be banked with leaves or 

 other material. See Fig. 2738. In the vicinity of Bos- 

 ton this should be done about November 15. The same 

 covering can also be given to low roofs. The glass is 

 protected by mats and shutters. See Hotbeds. It is a 

 good plan to have on hand an extra supply of dry 

 meadow hay to give additional shelter in zero weather. 

 Care and Management. Pits, e.g. Nos. 1, 2 and 3, 

 in Fig. 2741, like greenhouses, should carry more than 

 one "crop." In early autumn they hold chrysanthemums, 

 carnations, stevias, etc. ; nextthe-4sZea Indica,Cytisus 

 Canariensis, heaths, 

 etc., some of which re- 

 main for the winter, 

 while others are replaced 

 by hardy shrubs, bulbs 

 and other plants for 

 forcing. For spring and 

 summer use, see above. 

 In eastern Massachusetts 

 gardeners begin to use 

 them in September, but 

 the final storage some- 

 times is not finished un- 

 til Christmas. The 

 longer the plants can be 

 kept in the open air the 

 better fitted they are for 

 their winter quarters. 



In the care of pits, 

 watering and ventilation 

 are of prime importance. 

 When first housed the 

 plants should be well 

 watered, and, if this is 

 carefully done, it will 

 often be found that no 

 further water is required 

 for plants in tubs and 

 large pots (10 in. or 

 more). This also is true 



of heeled-in stock. Everything, however, should be so 

 arranged that inspection is easy, and water should be 

 given when necessary. Plants on the shelves, particu- 

 larly m small pots (4-inch), will go dry oftener than 

 those placed on the gravel floor. It is best to water on 

 bright days, when the sashes can be removed. The 



2739. A durable storing pit or cellar for very large plants. 



2740. A doorway in Fie. 7739. 



WINTER PROTECTION 



great difficulty in keeping plants in good condition is 

 owing to the condensation of moisture within the pits 

 at times when it is impossible to open them on account 

 of severe weather; therefore no more water should be 

 given than is absolutely needed. As long as the weather 

 permits, keep the sashes 

 off or the windows open 

 night and day, and after- 

 wards open up whenever 

 possible. On sunny days 

 ventilate whenever the 

 thermometer registers 

 over 20 F., but do not 

 begin untiL . the sun 

 strikes the frames, and 

 shut off early in the 

 afternoon. On mild 

 days, with the mercury 

 above freezing, remove 

 the sashes entirely. This 

 is the best way to get 

 rid of the moisture-laden 

 air, and is essential for 

 keeping evergreen plants 

 with soft foliage in good 

 condition. To change 

 the air in large cellars is 

 more troublesome; here 

 it is advisable to build 

 an open fireplace, in 



which a brisk fire may be kindled on mild days when all 

 windows can be unclosed, thus obtaining a better circula- 

 tion than is otherwise possible. Sometimes these large 

 cellars have a line of hot-water pipes or other means of 

 heating, by which not only is better ventilation secured 

 but also additional protection in severe weather. Occa- 

 sionally in heavy snows the pits must remain closed for 

 a week or more. This is undesirable but unavoidable. 

 At such times there is special danger from field mice 

 and other vermin. Concrete walls give them a poor 

 harbor, but they must also be trapped or poisoned. If 

 the plants are clean when housed, there is nothing to be 

 feared from ordinary greenhouse pests, either insect or 

 fungous, except the moulds. For related discussions, 

 see Nursery and Storage. 



Following is a list of plants that may be wintered in 

 pits and frames with satisfactory results. The list is 

 made for the neighbor- 

 hood of Boston. 



LIST OF PLANTS THAT CAN 

 BE WINTERED IN PITS. 



A. Hardy plants. 



1. Nursery stock of 

 every description that 

 may be required for ship- 

 ment in winter and early 

 spring. 



2. Stocks, cions and 

 cuttings for working 

 during the winter. 



3. Young nursery 

 stock, seedlings, cut- 

 tings or grafts too deli- 

 cate for planting in au- 

 tumn. 



4. Hardy plants of all 

 kinds for forcing or win- 

 ter decoration. 



The temperature of pit 

 or cellar for the above 

 plants should be 35 F. 

 or even lower occasion- 

 ally. The larger plants 

 should be heeled-in on 

 the floor in sandy loam 

 or in bunk-like shelves 



along the sides. Instead of loam, sphagnum can be 

 used and is particularly good for cuttings and grafting 

 stock. The very young stock is stored in flats or pans 

 in which it has been grown. Particular care mvist be 

 given to ventilation when evergreen plants are handled. 

 For forcing stock, see Forcing, pages 600-602. 



