56 HOW I MADE $10,000 IN ONE YEAR 



hinge is in constant use. Above the weather strip either 

 siding or tongue and groove stuff may be used. If siding 

 is used it will be necessary to add a short false stud be- 

 tween each stud; if tongue and groove stuff, a top and 

 bottom girth must be run from stud to stud. We have 

 both in use. We use 1x3 for the girths, and also for the 

 false studs. The upper 30 inches is left open and is cov- 

 ered with 2-inch mesh netting. An awning is used over 

 this opening, the details of which may be found in the 

 description of the cockerel house. The awning is held 

 open at all times, excepting when young pullets are first 

 put in the laying house, by means of a wire nailed to the 

 end of the rafter, wrapped 'round a nail driven into the 

 lower edge of the awning frame, and pulled tight to a 

 nail driven into a stud above the trough cover. Three 

 wires are used on each awning. This holds it absolutely 

 rigid. 



The rafters, of 2x6-18, are set at 4-foot intervals with 

 an extra one over the 50-foot stud, and are notched front 

 and back. The cantboard is of 1x6 preferably of red- 

 wood. To make the joint absolutely tight we put in the 

 cantboards when the rafters are set. The first rafter is 

 nailed in place. The cantboard is cut to proper length 

 and is set on top of the plate, flush with the inside of it. 

 (This avoids a dust-box on top the plate.) The next 

 rafter is set against it and spike-toe-nailed into the plate, 

 against the cantboard. When a section is completed the 

 projection of the cantboard is planed smooth with the 

 rafters and the roof sheathing is nailed to it. 



The roof sheathing is of 1x6; we prefer 12 and 16-foot 

 lengths, to which there is no waste if the rafters are set 



