after planting, the branches should be shortened ac- 

 cording to the size of the plant and the effects of the 

 previous winter ; the second year, thin out carefully, 

 retaining the best shoots of the previous year for 

 the sake of the blooms and the best and strongest 

 base-shoots to reach overhead. In most cases where 

 two varieties are together, it will probably be best 

 not to plant the dwarfer kind until the second or even 

 the third year, so that the taller variety may grow more 

 rapidly and be already developed when the other is 

 planted, and, also, it can then be seen where a companion 

 is needed. When thoroughly established, the plants 

 should be pruned as follows : 



First the dwarfer kind should be untied from the 

 post. The taller variety should then be dealt with by 

 cutting away all inferior or dead wood, care being 

 taken that the shoots left are not too numerous. At the 

 same time it is very important that those shoots which 

 will carry some flower overhead should be retained. 



When the pruning of the tall kind is completed and 

 it has been trained and re-tied, thin out and prune back as 

 far as necessary the dwarfer kind. Then re-tie the 

 shoots which are left around the taller companion, 

 avoiding tying too closely, as air and light are the chief 

 factors in causing the lateral "eyes " to break. Reference 

 to pages 56 83 will direct the reader to the treatment 

 for any particular variety, but as a general rule 

 Roses on pergolas will require less pruning, and more 

 training and tying, than is the case with those on 

 ordinary pillars. Kinds like the Ayrshires may often be 

 left two or three years practically untouched, when some 

 thinning will become necessary. Flowers and foliage, 

 and plenty of them, are the qualities most to be desired 

 in pergola Roses. 



