106 THE VILLA GARDENER. 



either fruit-bearing or ornamental, are sprinkled through them. Such gar- 

 dens will not be offensive to look at, especially through a foreground of low 

 trees; and, hence, it will not be necessary to proceed on the supposition that 

 much requires to be planted out, that is hidden or partially concealed by trees. 

 The ground being drained and levelled, and properly trenched and manured, 

 the walks may be blocked out ; but the gravel or the pavement should not 

 be laid for a year ; unless, indeed, the walks are formed of pavement laid on 

 stone piers. 



IGl. Planting. — We would first plant common ivy against the exterior 

 boundary wall, but not against the wall which separates the two back gardens. 

 This ivy, if of the common kind, will require no farther attention whatever; 

 but, if giant ivy be planted, it will require nailing, especially when it reaches 

 the coping of the wall, as its claspers do not adhere nearly so well to brick- 

 work as the common ivy. Against the wall which separates the two gardens 

 we would plant evergreen and deciduous magnolias, Ceanothus azureus, Pho- 

 tinia serrulata, Stranvsesia glauca, Eriobotrya japonica, Mahonia fascicularis, 

 and M. y^quifolium, &c. ; /asminum revolutum ; Cydonia japonica (not be- 

 cause it requires a wall, but because, if the blossom buds are picked off before 

 expanding during summer, the plant will continue in bloom all the winter) ; 

 Chimonanthvis fragrans ; the Banksian, Macartney, and other evergreen 

 roses ; and various climbers and twiners, such as the fragrant Chinese and 

 Japan honeysuckles, perpetual-flowering roses, wistaria, tecoma, passiflora, 

 &c. If the direction of the wall be north and south, then these kinds may be 

 placed on both sides of it ; but, if it should be east and west, then the more 

 tender plants should be placed only on the south side. It may be observed 

 here, that many trees and shrubs, which are considered somewhat tender, 

 thrive better on the north side of a wall than on the south side, provided they 

 are planted in dry soil, not too rich. The reason is, they are not so soon 

 excited by the action of the sun in spring, and consequently not so liable to 

 have their buds and young shoots injured by spring frosts. On the other 

 hand, from the want of sun to ripen their fruit in autumn, they are more 

 liable to be injured by the frosts of that season ; but this evil may be greatly 

 lessened by keeping the soil pure and dry, which will prevent the plants from 

 making long succulent shoots, which can only be ripened by the full influence 

 of the siui. All the plants above named, with the exception of ceanothus 

 and eriobotrya, will succeed perfectly in a northern exposure, if the border 

 be properly prepared with sand and lime rubbish, and the subsoil rendered 

 thoroughly dry. Immediately within the exterior boundaiy walls of both 

 gardens, we would plant a row of low-growing evergreen trees, at regular 

 distances, among which we would include all the variegated hollies (unless 

 these were abundant in the adjoining gardens), the box, the arbor vitas, the 

 common cypress, the red cedar, and, in some places, the evergreen and 

 Lucombe oaks, and the cork-tree. These trees, after they have grown 2 or 

 3 feet higher than the wall, will form, from the windows of both houses, a 

 foreground to the exterior scenery ; and, therefore, in planting them, the tall 

 and broad-headed kinds, such as the evergreen and Lucombe oaks, ought 

 only to be planted where there is something to conceal ; and the tall narrow- 

 growing kinds, such as the common cypress, the arbor vitie, &c., where the 

 exterior objects are required to be only slightly disguised. Where the objects 

 beyond the boundary are such as may be looked on at all seasons with 



