THE EUROPEAN JOURNALS 137 



time for the hour of departure, seven. The weather was 

 now somewhat fitful, but the road good, and the valley 

 charming. We passed the seat of the Duke of Devonshire, 

 and Matlock opened to our eyes in all its beauty, the hills 

 dotted with cottages and gentlemen's seats, the autumnal 

 tints diversifying the landscape and enriching beautiful 

 nature; the scenery reminds me of that part of America 

 on the river called the Clear Juniata. All is remarkably 

 clean ; we rise slowly to more elevated ground, leave the 

 river and approach the New Baths Hotel, where our host, 

 Mr. Saxton, has breakfast ready. After this we took a 

 long walk, turning many times to view the delightful 

 scenery, though the weather had become quite rainy. 

 We visited the celebrated cave, each carrying a lighted 

 candle, and saw the different chambers containing rich 

 minerals and spars ; the walls in many places shone like 

 burnished steel. On our return, which was down-hill, I 

 heard with much pleasure the repeated note of the Jack- 

 daws that constantly flew from hole to hole along the 

 rocky declivities about us. After dinner, notwithstanding 

 the rain, we rowed in a boat down the stream, to a dam 

 and a waterfall, where we landed, walked through the 

 woods, gathered some beautiful mosses, and saw some Hares, 

 heard a Kestrell just as if in America, returned to our boat 

 and again rowed, but this time up-stream, and so left the 

 Derwent River. 



Matlock, October 13. Still rainy, but I found a sheltered 

 spot, and made this sketch. We entered part of the 

 grounds of Sir Thomas Arkwright, saw his castle, his 

 church, and his meadows. The Rooks and Jackdaws were 

 over our heads by hundreds. The steep banks of the 

 Derwent were pleasantly covered with shrubby trees ; the 

 castle on the left bank, on a fine elevation, is too regular 

 to be called (by me) well adapted to the rich natural 

 scenery about it. We passed along a canal, by a large 

 manufactory, and a coal-yard to the inn, the Crumford, 



