THE EUROPEAN JOURNALS 143 



been much increased from my having ridden outside the 

 coach some thirty miles, to see the country. 



Edinburgh, Scotland, October 35, Wednesday. We 

 breakfasted at Carlisle, left there at eight, but I was sadly 

 vexed at having to pay twelve shillings for my trunk and 

 portfolio, as I had been positively assured at Manchester 

 that no further charge would be made. For perhaps ten 

 miles we passed through an uncommonly flat country, 

 meandering awhile along a river, passed through a village 

 called Longtown, and entered Scotland at ten minutes 

 before ten. I was then just six miles from the spot where 

 runaway matches are rendered lawful. The country 

 changed its aspect, and became suddenly quite woody; 

 we ran along, and four times crossed a beautiful little 

 stream like a miniature Mohawk; many little rapids were 

 seen in its windings. The foliage was about to fall, and 

 looked much as it does with us about our majestic western 

 streams, only much less brilliant. This scenery, however, 

 lasted only one stage of perhaps twelve miles, and again we 

 entered country of the same dreariness as yesterday, mere 

 burnt mountains, which were not interesting. The number 

 of sheep grazing on these hills was very great, and they 

 all looked well, though of a very small species ; many of 

 them had black heads and legs, the body white, with no 

 horns; others with horns, and still others very small, 

 called here " Cheviots." The shepherds were poor, 

 wrapped up in a thin piece of plaid, and did not seem of 

 that noble race so well painted by Sir Walter Scott. I 

 saw the sea again to-day. We dined at Hawick on ex- 

 cellent sea fish, and for the first time in my life, I tasted 

 Scotch whiskey. It appeared very potent, so after a few 

 sips I put it down, and told Mr. Patison I suspected his 

 son of wishing to make me tipsy; to which he replied that 

 probably it was to try if I would in such a case be as 

 good-natured as I was before. I took this as quite a com- 

 pliment and forgave the son. The conversation at dinner 



