THE EUROPEAN JOURNALS 231 



able lodgings, which I did in Collingwood Street. We 

 then walked to Mr. Bewick's, the engraver, son of the 

 famous man, and happily met him. He is a curious-look- 

 ing man ; his head and shoulders are both broad, but his 

 keen, penetrating eyes proved that Nature had stamped 

 him for some use in this world. I gave him the letters I 

 had for him, and appointed a time to call on his father. I 

 again suffered myself to be imposed upon when I paid my 

 bill at the inn on removing to my lodgings, and thought of 

 Gil Bias of Santillane. Five persons called to see my 

 drawings this afternoon, and I received a note from Mr. 

 Bewick inviting me to tea at six; so I shall see and talk 

 with the wonderful man. I call him wonderful because I 

 am sincerely of the opinion that his work on wood is 

 superior to anything ever attempted in ornithology. It is 

 now near eleven at night. Robert Bewick (the son) called 

 for me about six, and we proceeded to his father's house. 

 On our way I saw an ancient church with a remarkably 

 beautiful Lanterne at top, St. Nicholas' Church I was told, 

 then we passed over the Tyne, on a fine strong bridge of 

 stone, with several arches, I think six or seven. This is 

 distant from the sea, and I must say that the Tyne here is 

 the only stream I have yet seen since my landing resem- 

 bling at all a river. It is about as large as Bayou Sara 

 opposite the Beech Woods, when full. I saw some of the 

 boats used in carrying coals down the stream ; they are 

 almost of oval shape, and are managed with long, sweeping 

 oars, and steerers much like our flat-boats on the Ohio. 

 My companion did not talk much; he is more an acting 

 man than a talker, and I did not dislike him for that 

 After ascending a long road or lane, we arrived at Bewick's 

 dwelling, and I was taken at once to where he was at work, 

 and saw the man himself. He came to me and welcomed 

 me with a hearty shake of the hand, and took off for a 

 moment his half-clean cotton night-cap tinged with the 

 smoke of the place. He is tall, stout, has a very large 



